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Restaurants & Bars 14

Martinis & Meatloaf---EDENDALE GRILL

rabo encendido | Apr 16, 200507:16 PM

Stop #3 in the Loafquest: looking for that "high end", suit-and-tie Loaf, blue blood running in its veins. Engine Co #28 came close, but no Cohiba, senor.

EDENDALE is a terrific venue, rife with pre-Hollywood movie history (see link). Nice patio outside, inside split into a bar (positively hopping), and a cramped, but homey dining room. High scores for look and feel. As has been widely stated here, though, food is another matter.

First, the obligatory martinis. I order mine "dirty" and it comes "filthy", tasting of 80 proof olive brine.

ms. rabo goes for the filet mignon special ($33). A little overpriced and overcooked, but actually not bad. Tasty charred crust. I get the loaf.

Excuse the hyperbole, but this is quite possibly the worst loaf I've ever encountered. Strangely, the diminutive loaf itself, in all of its shy modesty, is blameless: an unfortunate lead-role that is hi-jacked, completely upstaged, by two horrific supporting performances.

First, the accompanying tomato-brown sugar glaze. Liberally poured on the loaf, this sticky, sickly-sweet syrup tastes like molasses, with sugar and honey added to it. A tomato-candy puree, and plenty of it.

Second, the applewood-smoked bacon, constraining the poor loaf like a girdle. Barely cooked, it is a limp strip of soggy, tasteless fat. It is a rare achievement, indeed, to f**k up bacon.

Clumpy mashed potatoes. Best thing on the plate are the veggies.

The search continues.

Link: http://www.edendalegrill.com/

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