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Lupita, Charing Cross, London

limster | Sep 12, 2011 02:05 PM

Slight tangy, green bean-like and modestly pulpy nopales/cactus go well with a cloak of melted cheese. Perked up a little with pico de gallo -- a salsa with chopped tomato, onions and a coriander. But hard to detect that fresh airy quality from the coriander that usually lifts a dish.

Wished there was a more smoky tomatillo flavour in the vaguely tangy green salsa that was ok with the pastor, decent cubes of marinated pork with shreds of pineapple. Also longed for just the faintest bit of that slight charring on the pork that would have given it more flavour.

There was also a darker red salsa that was somewhat spicy, not bad, but could use more punch.

Pretty good churros, with cajeta, a sweet caramelised milk dip.

Decent on the whole, and surprisingly better than what one might expect in London. Would give Wahaca a run for the money.

66 Chandos Pl, London, Greater London WC2E 7, GB

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