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Los Colibris

dubchild | Mar 11, 201505:36 PM

I don't think much has been said about this restaurant. The set up is a finer Mexican dining establishment upstairs called Los Colibris, and a taco joint downstairs called El Caballito. I guess I'll post separately about El Caballito.

Nice room, soft lighting, and efficient service. Given the location, they get a pre-theatre crowd. It was busy all three times we were there, so I recommend a reso. Thought out wine list, but it's really the cocktails and tequila that were more of interest to me.

The food is moderately priced, with most mains in the mid twenties. Portions are adequate to generous. Dishes can be busy, but the flavours are all big and they generally find balance. My take on the dishes is that they want to win you over with abundance, not in quantity, but in number of elements. Some people show their love through food, stingy is not a word I would use for Los Colibris.

Generally I found everything to be good to very good. The soups are excellent. Both the tortilla soup and the tomatillo daily special had depth from the stock and were generously garnished, including flavourful shredded chicken. The empanadas are fried and you get three. The filling was chicken that night, I found them a little starchy and the chicken lacked the punch of that in the soup. It's a dish which makes most sense if shared at a table. The octopus is tender and the basil and coriander has a pronounced flavour. It comes with corn tortillas, which are excellent but sort of unnecessary.

The hangar steak, or flank depending on the night, is very tender and flavourful. It comes with refried beans, crumbled chorizo, and salsa. The dish would have been just as impressive without the chorizo, but in the end who cares. Our night the chicken huitlacoche was a breast with green beans. There was no starch on the dish but it was a generous portion of meat. The mildly spiced lamb shank was the most underwhelming dish, not because of the execution, which was fine, but because it was too similar to a lamb shank found in any French bistro.

Apparently the chef previously worked as a pastry chef for many years, and it shows in the desserts. We tried the bunuelos, the chocolate flan, and the tres leche cake. All were excellent, decadent, moist, and consisted of many elements.

Agave y aguacate is maybe a fair comparison in that they both offer finer Mexican fare and at similar price. Agave y aguacate seems more focussed and with less elements on the plates, like it wants you to take notice that Mexican food can be quite fine. Los Colibris is also interested in showcasing quality, but it seems more interested in giving you a big hug rather than leaving you thinking about it.

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