How wonderful for Lorain! Meanu of previously three-starred, but demoted, L'Esperance, at Vezelay/St Pere, and Lorain of Cote St-Jacques, in Joigny, which had suffered the same fate previously, regain their previously lost third star!
Michel Trama at Puymirol also becomes three starred.
Other significant aspects of the 04 Red Guide:
-- Les Crayeres in Rheims loses its third star after Chef Boyer formally retired last year. :(
Frankly, Thierry Voisin, the current chef, executes the same way as Boyer and didn't deserve to lose the star. Boyer was not always superivising in the kitchen long before he formally retired, although Boyer is good about greeting clients. I like this restaurant quite a bit.
-- As expected, Meurice gets its second star in Paris, which is understandable given the buzz surrounding the chef transferred over from Les Muses in the Scribe Hotel.
-- Less crucial demotions were: Les Muses in Paris, Greuze at Tournis, la Réserve at Beaulieu, le Chantecler at Nice et Moulin de Mougins at Mougins. I guess that's a double negative for Alain Llorca.