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Restaurants & Bars 7

Lilly’s – the End of the Rainbow?

Mr Grub | Sep 25, 2002 01:49 PM

Continuing our quest for the “right” site for our rehearsal dinner next month, the Grubs revisited one of our fav spots – Lilly’s – despite the son of a Grub’s admonition, “No Abbot Kinney – ever.” (He’s more of a metalhead than a trendoid.) Our fiancee-in-law, however, (bless her heart) follows the food, even to Abbot Kinney for the likes of Joe’s or Lilly’s.

Fairly busy Sunday nite. As usual, greeted by effusively friendly host who, hearing our mission, seated us on the patio – his suggestion for the dinner. Very cozy, adequate area for 12, pretty well screened with bougainvillea & other living things from the hubbub outside the fences.

Accessible, thoughtful wine list from which we selected a gigondas that turned out to be quite wonderful at about $34. Madame Grubbe started with escargots to still her inner Jones. Straightforward, dead on. M. gushed over an admirable endive, roquefort, walnut salad. Again, straightforward, exactly as it should be. Entrees were entrecote for Madame – very French ribeye, not your Harvey’s dry-aged, but flavorful & “bleu.” Killer double-fried fries. M. – rack of lamb consisting of 5 tender chops simply herbed, properly cooked, & accompanied by terrific potatoes gratinee, & good green beans.

Gastronomical engines roaring, Grubbes finished off with 2 desserts: M. a decadent chocolate “cake” that was literally running with a dark chocolate sauce & Mme. a crispy-topped very creamy crème brulee the size of a manhole cover. Good coffee.

Son of a Grub & his groomsmen were brought up & lived in Venice for years & may be resentful of perceived gentrification of their ‘hood. He just may have to suck it up & suffer thru a delightful event at Lilly’s. As an aside, Lilly’s lack of a full bar would ease Mr. G’s post-party concerns.

The Grubs have a few more stops on the tour before making a final selection. For good & just reasons, we’ve eliminated 2 seemingly excellent suggestions by hounds: Jer-ne in the Marina Ritz Carlton because its menu is too fussy for the group & Buffalo Club in Santa Monica because the fiancee-in-law flat-out refuses to return there. Something about rudeness, attitude, pretension.

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