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This Land is Ma Lan

Robert Lu | Feb 20, 200507:56 PM

Following up on Jerome's initial investigation, I ordered beef noodle soup w/triangle cut noodles, cold celery and cold seaweed.

They have exemplars of each noodle cut at the counter. You can watch the noodlemaster work the dough, pulling and smacking it.

The noodles are terrific. Tough but not too tough, breaking apart at the exact moment in your bite that you want them to. You could cast them as Rick in Casablanca...

Soup was good, but wasn't crazy about it. As you know from my pho posts, I have very low tolerance for clove. Not much beef in there either, but that's the way they do it in Beijing too.

Celery had a very nice tang of Sichuan peppercorn oil. Seaweed not as garlicky or vinegary as I like.

Will definitely be back for those noodles. Place was almost empty on a Saturday night. My friends and I were one of only four tables. Join me in the fight to save this worthy noodle show!

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