Restaurants & Bars 14

Kuala Lumpur - Swine heaven at S.Wine

klyeoh | Apr 26, 2012 07:54 AM

As they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery - S.Wine, the wine & pork specialists at Publika spared us a lengthy trip to New York for a taste of David Chang's pork-belly buns at Momofuku: it re-produced the braised pork belly sandwiched within steamed mantou buns with scallions & crisp pickled cucumbers. The version at S.Wine was extremely fatty though, and the taste was far from the deliciousness which Chinese diners would expect from what seemed like "dong po" pork (東坡肉).

The starter: parma ham with sweet melon, topped with peppery arugula was nice, but predictable.

We also tried the house specialty: barbecued pork-ribs, served with a creamy, sharp slaw and a bunch of not-very-good fries which didn't quite do anything for the dish. The pork-ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender, but not as tasty as I'd have liked (even Tony Roma's or HRC do better ribs here in KL).

I'll need to come back for some other intriguing-sounding Asian choices on the menu: Hainanese pork chop and assam pork curry, among others. Like many non-halal restaurants in Muslim-Kuala Lumpur, S.Wine thrived more on the novelty of being a trendy, hip eatery serving pork to the hungry (and rather deprived) non-Muslim minorities, mainly the Chinese-Malaysian populace, rather than actually offering good cooking. All the dishes here tasted "meh", and wouldn't pass muster in neighboring cities like Singapore, Bangkok or Hong Kong.

Address details
S.Wine Cafe
Lot 1A, 83-95, Level UG1
Publika, No. 1 Jalan Dutamas 1
Solaris Dutamas
50480 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: +603-6209 1716

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