Restaurants & Bars


Kappo. An exceptional culinary adventure.


Restaurants & Bars 17

Kappo. An exceptional culinary adventure.

Will4Food | Mar 13, 2013 12:50 PM

Dined last evening at Kappo, the latest exclusive (8 diners only) culinary laboratory in the David Chang empire. Prior to this dinner, guests received personal phone calls from the ebullient Chef Paul Carmichael to determine food preferences/allergies and to learn about participants' favorite liquors/cocktails. Kappo is a very comfortable sectioned off portion of the bar in Ma Peche where all the food (for a nearly three-hour repast) is prepared by the Chef and his capable team. The evening begins with personalized cocktails mixed by spirits guru Caitlin and served with excellent fried chicken skins and salted seaweed chips. After a dramatic life ending ceremony for two noble lobsters, the Chef and team prepare a parade of exotic, flavorful, and "quirky" dishes, featuring lots of seafood including John Dory, Conch, Uni, a succulent salt-encrusted bass and those lucky lobsters. A bread course (baked on the spot) showcases loaves of Challah drenched in duck fat and salt. Congee is served with egg yolk and dotted with seafood. Guests are instructed in the art of mofongo making, and are given wooden pilons and mashers to turn the ingredients (plantains, garlic, etc.) into this staple of Puerto Rican cuisine. Somewhere during this food parade, a dish of scrambled eggs and barbequed pigtails made a tasty guest appearance. Dessert included an apple sorbet paired with an ethereal peanut butter mousse. There was also some superb molasses candy. The wine/drink pairing (a $65 supplement) is creative, generous and is in perfect sync with the food. From a rare cider, to an esoteric white wine(Prie Blanc) from Northwestern Italy, to a late-meal pina colada and a sparkling burgundy, the libations were exceptional. Overall, Kappo provides a satisfying (though at times challenging) culinary adventure. Chef Carmichael and team are onto something here. Ahead lies greatness.

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