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jacob Wirth, Theatre District, Boston


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jacob Wirth, Theatre District, Boston

Limster | May 29, 2003 12:26 AM

I love the old world elegance of the interiors, the comfortable feeling one gets sipping beer in a distant place.

The food is competently made. Very crumbly fall-apart-in-hands cornmeal bread has an addictive sweetness to it. In the mixed grill plate, two kinds of plump sausages are complemented nicely by sweet red cabbage and lightly sour sauerkraut. Bacon adds depth to the potato salad.

The ultra-thin layers of pastry on the strudel is great; first the brittle crackle of each gossamer layer, then they meld slowly into a thick soft shell over the apples. Only quibble is that there's too much pastry to filling, the texture balance isn't right. I think I caught a hint of booze in the sweet soft apple filling. Dark cherries garnish the plate and top off a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

There's are more complicated dishes on the menu, but I was fairly satisfied with these simple German offerings.

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