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Italy (Part 2) Capri and Positano

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Italy (Part 2) Capri and Positano

PhilD | Sep 17, 2011 10:38 PM

Onto the next leg of the trip and after a very early start to avoid the general strike we arrived in Capri. We stayed in a small B&B in Anacapri and headed out for lunch as soon as we arrived. Le Arcate is a small local restaurant just along the main road from the main bus stop in Anacapri, it’s friendly mixing locals with tourists on some sort of set lunch package. The shared Caprese salad was first class and the pizza was very good from a chef operating a traditional wood fired oven. We drank a botle of local white which hit the spot perfectly, total bill with water coffee and bread was €45 which we felt was fair. That night we headed to the town square in Capri for some people watching and wallet damaging aperitifs before heading back to Le Arcate for a repeat of lunch, which was again good with some nice veal. The evening crowd is a bit different and seemed 70/30 local/tourist which was nice.

Based on some previous posts on the board we tried “da Gemma” in Capri town for a shared pizza and Caprese salad lunch, it was OK but nothing of particular note and seemed to be trading a bit on past glories. The bill for two (with no wine) came to €42.

That night opted for the big night out at Aurora again in Capri town. The food here is mixed, some items were outstanding like the Carpaaccio and pasta, but the veal lacked flavour and the tortino seemed under-seasoned. The wine list was also eye wateringly expensive with a €45 bottle at the bottom end. It’s a good looking, very popular restaurant and they do turn tables so not a very relaxed meal. It is very popular with the wealthy visitors and this is something to be wary of. We were sat next to a Russian “princess” who was very, very loud, and boastful she even decided to sing (off tune) the first line of every Beatles song she knew, thankfully not that many, and then when the couple next to her moved to an inside table she remarked “I earn more in a year than he does in a lifetime”. The whole restaurant physically heaved a sigh of relief when she left: to paraphrase the Beatles; money can’t buy you class. I know this isn’t a restaurants fault but I think it is good to know the type of clientele when choosing a meal and on reflection I wonder if my average rating for the food was influenced by the appalling fellow diner. Total bill was €162 - the most expensive meal of the trip and least enjoyable.

The next day we headed to Positano for the day, lots of places to choose from, although San Pietro the Michelin starred restaurant in town only opens for dinner, so we wandered around to see what took our fancy. We chose Albergo Rostorante in the Hotel Buca Di Bacco, it had that chintzy Italian look which doesn’t appeal to me, but something about the menu appealed. It turned out to be a very good lunch on a terrace overlooking the beach with first class service. We started with a great fennel and prawn salad with a little chilli to liven it up, Then an anchovy and zucchini millefogli which really delivered (layers of fish and vegetable like the cake) and the home-made pasta with zucchini flowers was perfect. We finished with some homemade chestnut cake and enjoyed a few glasses of a very drinkable house white. The bill was €75 which was quite expensive but given the location and service and overall quality of food was worth the price.

Back to Capri for dinner and on advice from this board we headed to “da Gelsomina alla Migliara”, this is a little outside Anacapri but they have a (free) shuttle service that picks you up and returns you to the hotel. It specialises in home cooked, home grown food and was a great way to end the stay in Capri. We started with aperitifs, and my Negroni was strong enough to blow my socks off and good value at €5. A good frito italia (frid vegtables) and Caprese Salad to start followed by two very fine home made pastas one with prawns the other with fish. We finished with a very good cheese plate. All up with drinks, wine, water and coffee the bill was €121 which wasn’t too bad for the quality and the “free” transport. Definitely a recommendation if on the island.

The next day we head to Puglia with high hopes more consistently good food and lower prices...!

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