Went to Hush last evening. Was in LB and walked in at 5:30 with no reservation. First encountered a very large man in a black suit with a shaved head outside the front door of the restaurant. He inquired whether or not we had a reservation. I did not want to make him feel his job was superfluous, so I just said no. We went in and asked if there was a table and were informed that the restaurant was fully booked. (We were the only customers in the place) Most times when this happens I let the host know that I will be out within the 60 to 90 minutes that it takes to finish the meal and most of the time the staff is more than accomodating. Since I read on this board that the restaurant was new I did not want to tax them and happily took two seats at the long table at the bar.
The restaurant was freezing inside (it was raining outside) and when our waitperson came over to take our order I mentioned this. She acknowledged that it was fairly chilly but noted that it was probably because the restaurant had so much stone and that she and her boyfriend lived in a house with stone and it was always cold. I thanked her for filling me in on her personal life and asked if she could please check to see if they could warm the place up a bit. I will mention that the female staff is outfitted in nightclub attire, sheer black backless halter outfit with a lot of skin showing. And that the bar area is in fact covered in hard surfaces which makes it rather loud when the unoccupied staff congregates to chat with each other in the same area.
After our waitperson had taken our drink order, bread was brought out. These were lukewarm Pioneer type rolls, with a rather generic butter that had no discernable flavor. I ordered a glass of Pinot, asking which one she preferred. She brought out the Steele in a carafe that was poured into a very decent bourdeax glass. It was not very good and I asked for the other Pinot by the glass. This was a better wine and the service was accomodating.
Our first course was a pretty good wilted endive and radicchio salad with a cheese custard. It came with grilled bread, but the bread was more than likely from the day before and it was cold.
We next had the sweetbreads with fingerling potatoes and grilled daikon radish and the onion soup. I failed to understand the rationale of the daikon with the sweetbreads, but at least the sweetbreads were cooked fairly adequately. The onion soup came with carnitas croutons. I guess you could call the food multi-cultural, but unfortunately it just seems muddy.
When we left around 7 the bouncer was still at the door, most of the tables in the restaurant were unoccupied and the parking attendants (in black) were looking at a mostly empty lot. I wish Hush good luck but to my mind, the mostly lackadaisacal service, the high prices (most entrees were around $35), the somewhat unsophisticated style of cooking and the nagging thought that this was a restaurant that really wanted to be a nightclub has me unconvinced. I just can't seem to get the bouncer at 5:30 image out of my head. At least it makes me laugh.
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