Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

highline...or...just tie me to the tracks and bring on the train

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highline...or...just tie me to the tracks and bring on the train

djk | Jul 16, 2004 01:00 AM

landsakes. was i disappointed. i didn't expect sripriphai but i hoped for taste and fun decor. there's more fun decor than anyone could hope to squeeze in one tri-level space and less taste than you could squeeze out when sucking very hard on a rock.

good mojitos in all kinds of flavors, a wine list that you have to dig through to find something decent to order (and we did but i have no idea any longer what it was) and then a host of appetizers and entrees that basically tasted identical. was it fois gras, was it a scallop? two standouts and maybe that's because we were desperate for tongue relief, were the coconut shrimp which were a bit spicy, not overly fried but very, very tiny and the penang with tofu - the far and away winner of the evening. there was a curl on the palate after eating it, you knew that you'd had something that was distinct, considered, meant to be enjoyed. every other dish tasted exactly the same, if taste could extend itself to be the verb that it is. it's reaching to imply any sensation. and let's not even get into the service - what service?

what can one say about a dinner at one restaurant that ends up at another one. we practically raced to florent for burgers, boudin noir and the still lovely evelyn's goat cheese salad. old disco, mediocre wine but real food, with taste, with pleasure. skip highline and slip right into your next choice. bon appetite.

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