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Restaurants & Bars 4

Harvey's Guss Meat Comany

David Kahn | Jun 19, 200505:22 PM

So, I've read about Harvey's Guss Meat Company (949 S. Ogden Dr., at Olympic across from the Pioneer Chicken and next door to Hunan Taste, (323) 937-4622) on this board for years, and finally got around to trying their steaks yesterday.

We were hosting a dinner party for 14, so last Wednesday, I called and ordered one dozen dry aged prime New York steaks, cut an inch and a quarter thick, along with a couple of half chickens (free range) for the three people who didn't want beef. the steaks were $24 each. The Missus picked them up on Friday (they have odd hours, btw) and said the folks there were gruff, but in a nice way, which corresponds perfectly to my experience speaking to them on the phone.

On Saturday, I brought the steaks to room temperature, patted them dry, gave them a good dose of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and then cooked them over oak and hickory charcoal (from California Charcoal). I noticed how nice the meat looked as I was unpacking it -- the steaks had the sort of hardcore intramuscular marbling I usually associate with Kobe beef, with very little fat outside the meat. I know this is an odd thing to say about uncooked meat, but they also smelled good -- sort of a mineral kind of scent with none of the funk you sometimes get with aged meat.

So, tasting. Seriously, these were, hands down, the best New York steaks I've ever had. Buttery, minerally, and intensely beefy flavors that were just amazing. It's kind of hard to describe, but these steaks tasted, sort of, concentrated. In the past, I've gotten dry aged NY steaks from Whole Foods, and I've always thought they were pretty good, but the Harvey's Guss steaks were so much better -- like the difference between a piece of Domori Blend No. 1 bitter sweet chocolate and a Hershey's kiss.

I now understand why people rave about this place -- it's a little, hidden, gem of a meat shop, and, now that I've found it, I can hardly wait for my July 4th bbq!

Thanks hounds.

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