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so happy about Slanted Door dinner

Dbird | Aug 26, 2004 12:19 AM

I had only been once to the new SD, for lunch, when I was disappointed that I couldn't get the carpaccio but had a terrific meal nevertheless of florida shrimp (the most pedestrian dish), sugar snap peas and sweet corn (or did I have the squid? now I've forgotten) plus the Brundlmeyer riesling. Returned a month later the other night for dinner where I enjoyed another glass of the riesling as bartender/waiters discreetly helped me plan & implement a strategy into a quiet(er) stool at the bar for dinner.

First oysters-- two miyagi, two hog island sweetwater and two beau soleil, with a bit of blanc de blancs-- some of the finest oysters I can remember having-- and this in August?

Then the carpaccio which more than merited my prior lunchtime disappointment. Tender and thinly sliced but not like rice paper, which can be pretty but too often means it is sliced frozen and flavorless. I did find it wanted salt.

Then the branzino special with a bit of the bok choy. I have only ever had branzino qua branzino at Italian restaurants where I don't recall the the meat having been quite this mealy/overcooked, though the skin was fantastically seasoned and crispy and today I think I would happily order the same again, though probably would ask them to hold back a little on the grill time. The ginger/lemongrass sauce moistened it up quite a bit but I enjoy some bites of plain fish and I don't think this one was quite ready to go naked full time. The bok choy was slurpingly good and well seasoned.

I am only in SF a couple times a month but Slanted Door is definitely my new favorite there and excites me as much as a recent return to Blackbird and first time to Green Zebra in Chicago. Incidentally a repeat (after two years) at Fifth Floor not long ago was pretty dull and very expensive.

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