I just wanted to report that I had a great meal at L'Amante tonight. It's been two or three years since I last ate there and the food and service were even better than I remember them being. I started with a Negroni and their lovely low salt bread with two spreads; a chicken liver pate and a garlicky hummus. Fantastic. Then came cod cheeks in a creamy leek and potato soup which were just lovely. And though the 2005 Vietti Roero Arneis I paired with it cut through the richness of the soup, that wine (my first Arneis) was a little too sharp for me. So I continued the meal with Salice Salentino, my favorite Italian red. For the pasta course, I had a small portion of their penne bolognese, which was as deep and flavorful as I remembered it being. My main consisted of grilled quail on a potato-leek tart, with rapini and a marsala sauce. The quail were so perfectly cooked I ate them, bones and all. I finished with a gianduja mousse cake and a double espresso. Too much? Yeah, probably, but my tongue was doing the happy dance and I didn't want it to stop. A grappa, Jacopo Poli Sassicaia, to help digest it all, and then home to sleep the sleep of the very well fed.