I’ve been making gougères for more years than I care to remember. I’ve tried recipes from JC, Michael Field, Gourmet, Zuni. They’re always good, but I never thought they were truly great. Some were a bit too thin to pipe easily. Others just didn’t have enough flavor. Mostly, they just weren’t cheesy enough. I can never get enough cheese.
So, for a party this weekend, I’m making Zuni’s New Year’s Eve Gougères and decided to try yet another recipe. I just stumbled across this from Alain Ducasse.
Absolutely the best so far. It’s a fairly thick dough that’s very easy to pipe, resulting in a far more attractive shape than the ones I’d made with the Zuni recipe. He uses half whole milk and half water instead of all water and I think the milk helps to enhance the cheese flavor and make the gougères a bit richer. And he does use more Gruyere than most recipes—3½ ounces rather than the 2 that is often called for.
I know a number of Hounds made gougères for Thanksgiving and if any of you made one you thought was really extraordinary, I’d be curious to hear how it compares ingredients-wise to this one. I’m always willing to try a new gougères recipe. But this one will be the new standard against which others will be held.
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