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Manhattan

Good World Bar for Swedish food (mini-review)

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Good World Bar for Swedish food (mini-review)

Lambretta76 | Jul 16, 2004 09:00 AM

First time in a long while I've been to Good World Bar, which is on Orchard Street just south of Canal. Have had some realy tasty brunches in the past - the pytt i panna, which is a hash made with chunks of steak, potatoes, and deer sausage with egg and beets, is particularly tasty - but haven't been for dinner in a long while.

To start - bread was served with a sour cream "dippin' sauce" with dill, garlic, and perhaps some kind of cheese mixed in. Addictive stuff - the bread is just run of the mill NYC baguettes. (Not that that's a bad thing.)

Started with two of the small dishes, the smoked salmon roll ($3) and the lavender flower-cured lamb loin ($4). The lamb loin, eaten by itself, was dry, a bit salty, and overpowering due to a healthy dose of the lavender essence. However, when paired with the accompanying rhubarb chutney the dish took on a completely different flavor, with the sweetness/bitterness of the rhubarb complimenting the saltiness and "perfume" of the lamb loin. All in all it has been one of the more interesting appetizers I've had in a long while and I thought it was really tasty. The smoked salmon roll was a healthy roll of smoked salmon with a layer of horseradish-tinged cream inside. Simply served with a wedge of lemon, it was good in a way that good lox and cream cheese can be. Compared to the lamb loin it was fairly boring, but on its own it was quite nice. Served with a sprinkling of wild rice on top.

As an entree I had the potato pancake with bacon and lingonberries ($10). The potato pancake was a bit thin and crunchy, but the bacon was very flavorful - and abundant with probably over 10 pieces - and the lingonberries went well with both. It was quite good, but I don't think I'd order it as a main again.

My dining companions had the swedish meatballs ($14) and the Good World burger ($11). I only was able to sample the burger, which was tasty enough, but not on par with the best in the city. The house-pickled beets mixed in with the ground beef add an interesting flavor to the patty.

Definitely worth returning to - they pickle their own herring in house it seems, so I'd like to try some of those. And the lamb loin will definitely be making an encore.

Link: http://www.goodworldbar.com/

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