We'll be doing the standard Montmartre walking tour (probably following Rick Steve's route) in November. What would you recommend for a good lunch? I'm certainly willing to walk several blocks out of the way for something good. We're not looking for a big three-course meal. In fact, I'd just love a great bowl of onion soup, moules et frites, crepes, or something of that nature. And, of course, a good glass of wine. And are there some streets we shouldn't miss when we're walking around? Or any great kitchen supply stores?