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Restaurants & Bars

Germany (Aying, Munich) and Austria (Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck) dining report

bsprout | Aug 24, 201501:40 PM     2

We arrived to Aying,Germany, after spending a few days in Markdorf, a pretty resort town on Lake Constance, also in Germany. In Aying we stayed at the Brauereigasthof Hotel Aying, which is 25 minutes by car outside of Munich. They have the Aying Brewery nearby and an excellent beer garden on-site (www.ayinger-braeustueberl.de). We ate at their beer garden twice. The food was always fresh and delicious, and the Aying beer, needless to say, hit the spot. The playground for the kids was a nice touch, too (not uncommon in German beer gardens, but still). In Munich, we had dinners at Zum Franziskaner and Der Pschorr. Both were nice, casual restaurants, great for traditional German food. They also had special dishes for the in-season 'pfifferlings' (chanterelle mushrooms). Zum Franziskaner is across from the Opera and in the center (Residenzstraße 9, www.zum-franziskaner.de). Der Pschorr is across the street from the Viktualienmarkt (Viktualienmarkt 15; www.der-pschorr.de). For lunch one day in Munich we headed to the English Garden and spent the most entertaining afternoon at the beer garden that is by the Chinese Tower. You must go here if you have kids. They have food stands serving excellent quality food of all kinds. Or if you want a snack they have delicious pretzels, too. I am not a beer drinker but it goes without saying that the beer is fantastic. The kids played all afternoon in the playground next to the beer garden (priceless!) and grazed by our table for food when they got hungry. This is a fun, local thing to do, although I was surprised at how many American ex-pat kids my children met here, lol. We also had a great Thai lunch at Yum2Take, just off the Viktualienmarkt (Sebastianplatz 8; www.yum2take.de). My kids had turkey satay. We tried the various curries and pad thai; all very good. There is nice outdoor seating and plenty of indoor seating as well.
We drove to Füssen to see the castles and here I had planned to eat at Il Pescatore (Franziskanergasse 13, www.ilpescatore-fuessen.de) but when we arrived, around 3pm, they were closed until dinner. Too bad because it looks like a great restaurant. So we went next door to Aquila and were pleasantly surprised with a delicious meal. It is a simple menu but everything is prepared perfectly and the service was welcoming (Am Brotmarkt 9, www.aquila-fuessen.de).
In Vienna we had dinners at Restaurant Leopold in Leopoldstadt(Grosse Pfarrgasse 11/ 1-3; www.restaurant-leopold.de), Zwölf Apostelkeller in the old city(Sonnenfelgasse 3; www.zwoelf-apostelkeller.at), and at Pfarrwirt, a heuriger just outside the city center (Pfarrplatz 2;www.pfarrplatz.at). Leopold has excellent food and this was one of our best meals, but also one of the most expensive. The service was great until the very end, when they abruptly and without prior notice told us the garden where we seated was closing, and so was the kitchen. They said we could go inside and drink. That would have been fine except we hadn't finished our meal and hadn't ordered dessert yet, which on this night we were looking forward to. We mentioned this and our waiter apologized for admittedly forgetting to tell us this beforehand but said the kitchen was closed. This ruined the meal for us, we were so upset by this treatment, certainly not good etiquette for any restaurant, I don't care where in the world it is.
Zwölf Apostelkeller was a really cool place. It is located in a cellar that has 3 basements. There is definitely some history to this place, and it is a hodge podge of tourist and local, date night and groups. We all had a very good meal here (just don't have the house wine. None of us thought it was very good). There are several Ratskeller-like places like this in Vienna and this was an interesting place to check out. I also noticed it is right across the street from the venerable Figlmüller restaurant, which had a large Asian tour group lined up outside its door.
We tried a heuriger (typical Viennese wine tavern serving their latest wines) on our last night and I am so glad we did this. It was nice to experience a leisurely meal with excellent wines. We chose the heuriger Pfarrwirt and ate in their garden. It is a beautiful restaurant and the food and wine were also spectacular and memorable, I am happy to report. I was worried that this restaurant would be overpriced and touristy (Beethoven purportedly lived here at one time) but I didn't find it to be. (I can't remember the name of the CH'er who insisted I try a heuriger on this trip but if you are reading this, thank you again!!)
Brunch late Saturday morning was at 'Motto am Fluss', a still-standing boat on the Danube Canal by the Schwedenplatz. This is a trendy and pretty restaurant that opened as a hot spot in 2012, serving good food with a nice view. You can sit inside or outside and on weekends they have a DJ. My kids were really happy to get pancakes here (and good ones, too).
As for Viennese cafes, we were supposed to go to Café Hofburg after our visit to the Haus of Musik (thank you for the rec, Sturmi), but it was pouring rain and since we found ourselves by the Opera, we grabbed some falafel on the median by the tram stop (just OK, although my kids loved the sausages and frankfurters they had by the MuseumQuartier stands on the Ringstrasse). From there we walked to Café Landtmann and had some nice drinks and desserts.
In Salzburg we had lunch at Bioburgermeister (delicious and all very fresh ingredients. My only critique is that my fries were too salty). Another lunch we had were sandwiches prepared by our hotel (Hotel Villa Auersperg) - not only were they enormous, they were incredibly delicious...we are still thinking about these!
Dinners in Salzburg were at S'Herzl (Getreidgasse 27; www.restaurantherzl.com/en), Das Restaurant Wasserfall (Linzergasse 10; call to reserve: tel. 011-33-662-873-331; www.restaurant-wasserfall.at), and an Indian place recommended by our hotel that we thought was overpriced and uncomfortably hot for inside seating (no air-conditioning inside and there was no space outside the night we went). S'Herzl and Restaurant Wasserfall were both fantastic. S'Herzl is a charming old-fashioned place with delicious, reliable food. Their signature chocolate dessert was excellent (see pic). Wasserfall is also excellent Italian food - everything here is perfectly prepared. I really enjoyed my special pasta with truffles (one of my favorite dishes).
In Innsbruck, lunch was at Restaurant-Pizza Geisterburg (Stadtgraben 18; www.gasterburg.at). Actually this restaurant was in the town of 'Hall in Tirol', about 10 min by car from Innsbruck but right by our hotel). This is a lovely little town with the Alps enveloping you as you stroll outside. My pizza here was out of this world and I am still thinking about it, so I want to mention if you happen to be here (see attached pic). Dinner was at a wonderful restaurant, Fischerhaüsl, in Innsbruck's Old Town, tucked behind the Hofburg museum and the cathedral but just out of the tourist main drag (Herrengasse 8; www.fischerhaeusl.com). There is a large car park next door if you are traveling by car. This is a popular restaurant with plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, and great food. I had the trout, perfectly prepared and very tasty. My son ordered spare ribs and ate the entire thing.
As usual I have written way too much but I hope this is helpful to anyone traveling here and navigating the many wonderful food choices there are.

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