I've been to Gennaro (not sure about the sp.)on 92nd and Amsterdam two or three times over the last few years, tonight being the most recent. Each time I get excited by the waits, and by the smells, and the bustling atmosphere. And each time, I leave thinking that the food is ordinary, the service hurried and thoughtless (we were squeezed, as three, into an impossible table - plastic man couldn't have fit. We waited for another table. Our apps were snatched away before completed and our main courses thrust in their place. We were given copious hints to hurry up and leave by the head waiter as we sat finishing our bottle of wine.) Mind you I'm not saying the food is bad, just unexciting (smells and looks better, as you stand waiting, than it IS), and the overall atmosphere of restless anticipation seems, in retrospect, like the sign of a community in desperate straits restaurantwise.