The glorious fresh ham was a pretty common dish at family gatherings throughout my life, though not so much at Easter where "red ham" was more in keeping with Polish/Eastern European traditions and historical realities. I still think the former is an under-appreciated (and judging by some of the threads I've seen on this Site - under-understood) roast. I was always a big fan of the leftover, cold roast pork, sliced thin, on rye with mayo, lettuce, and tomato for lunch the next day.
So here's to Sifton for writing this piece. Further, here's to Harold Moore and Bruce Weinstein for being on the "right" side of the brining issue.