Normally I wouldn't write about a restaurant that has been extensively reviewed and praised by chowhounders already, but the house smoked salmon, a new addition to the menu, is the most spectacular dish I've had this year -- the kind of dinner that almost made me pass out from pleasure.
It's not at all like the soggy lox commonly eaten with bagels and cream cheese, or served with bitter onions and briny capers.
It's prepared more like southern smoked ribs -- fully cooked, yet tender. It bursts with smokiness and a subtle sweetness, sealed in a crunchy dry-rub. Who knew that beef and pork would have such a perfect companion (and spicy competition) in the smokehouse? Or that a northern ingredient would be so happily married to southern technique?