A find equal to Grace Garden?

Question

I just tried Hunan Taste, a new (opened last week) restaurant in Catonsville in the same strip center as H Mart. Large traditional Hunan menu and, except for us, all Chinese clientele the night we were there. There is a two-page sheet of Americanized Chinese food — sweet and sour, General Tso's, etc. — but all of the rest is the real deal, including ox. I was with unadventurous eaters (my wife and two of our children) so I was the only one who ordered off of the traditional menu, but my dish was as authentic as Grace Gardens (albeit Hunan rather than Cantonese).

More of a restaurant and less homey and friendly than Grace Garden, but it is in a much less sketchy neighborhood. I'll go back next week with friends who'll order off the traditional menu, and we'll see. Right now I'm pretty excited.

Hope to hear some other opinions soon.

Answer

I was at H-Mart this afternoon, and went in to HT to glance at the menu. Unfortunately, they don't have a carry out menu, but they definitely had stuff that I can't recall seeing other places. I can't remember most of them, but what sticks in my mind is a dish with goose intestines. 

The menu beyond the goose dishes seemed well worth a try. It's definitely on my list.

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Have you ever had anything from the "secret menu" at Hunan Legend? If so, how does Hunan Taste compare? I figure that a comparison of two nominally Hunan places might be easier to calibrate than Hunan Taste's presumably Hunan style against Grace Garden's "Szechaun by way of Hong Kong" strong suit.

I've never felt unsafe at Grace Garden, so I'm not sure what the "sketchy neighborhood" comment is about. Both Grace Garden and Hunan Taste are in strip malls with their own parking, so I see that aspect as a wash if you are comparing GG to HT. I doubt anybody's going to get mugged in the fifty feet from car to door at either place.

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I stopped by on my way home from work the other night (after hitting Hmart) to look at the menu, they have a limited carryout menu now thats mainly Chinese American. I told them I wanted to look at the regular menu, grabbed one from the counter and they said, "thats the real chinese menu." I said, "thats what I am looking for." It looks like they have 2 different menus. The real menu looked interesting, they did have alot of stuff, mostly in the seafood section taped over. I would go back to check out the food, the menu was alot more extensive then the Hunan Legend menu. For some reason, the one thing I remember off the menu was "sauteed sponge gourd".

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So this is completely different from the Hunan Taste in Reisterstown? Im having a hard time finding anything online. Probably because its so new. Anybody have an address for it?

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we tried it friday night and officially declare this place a destination restaurant. First the place is nice inside. The waiters were young and enthusiastic. They do not have a liquor license so bring your own. There is a large liquor store across the street. The menu is very large and you will find little resemblance to anything you typically would see at at chinese restaurant. The Hunan Taste version of hot and sour soup was excellent, much thinner than normal with a great but different flavor and no egg in it.. The Hunan ribs were ribs cut very thin against the bone so that there is a ring of meat around a small circle of bone. in a spicey sauce. very good. We had the twice cooked pork with garlic and it was very tastey. The peking duck is roasted duck rendered of its fat. no pancakes or green onions. delicous. The house sauteed noodle had some shrimp, beef and chicken in it and very little resemblence to lo mein or pan fried noodles. again very tastey. Entire dinner for 5 was $57. plus tip plus the cost of 6 pak of beer. can't wait to go back. biggest problem is the daunting menu and what to try. Similar in quality to Grace Garden as well as the unusual factor but nicer decor and setting.

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For pictures, see my blog entry: http://tizinu.wordpress.com/2009/11/11/hunan-taste-catonsville-md/

Baltimore City still lacks decent Chinese food. (Sorry, Zhong Shan, you still need a lot of work.) But it seems like Catonsville has a solution to this dirth of real, authentic, I can take my mom to this place and she won’t hate it, Chinese. It’s called Hunan Taste and it’s next to our favorite Sunday hangout place– the HMart in Catonsville.

The restaurant is in a strip mall, but it’s possibly the best located strip mall location for an authentic Chinese food experience. With hundreds of hungry Chinese families going to the HMart on a daily basis, it is working by word of mouth through the Chinese community as a place to get real Hunan cuisine– “dry” cooked with fresh chili peppers and garlic being the essence of the dish. It’s also got a wide range of dishes for large parties: there are the American dishes of General Tso’s to the REALLY authentic dishes that my grandma makes because it’s hard to find, like the goose intestines, hot pot, or fermented soybeans with chilis. (Think stinky tofu, but not tofu.) And it’s definitely trying to get those large parties in, with a fabulous wooden carving in the entry, a secluded back room with karaoke, and a polished but definitely Chinese decor that blends Last Emperor with the Red Maple– posh, clean, but hinting of the Old World. Jonathan Gold would hate this place, but my mom and I loved sitting there, calmly eating our dishes and trying to not get too excited. Our food was great, fantastic, and dare I say it… damn good authentic Hunan cuisine.

We ordered the following:

Chicken Bumkin appetizer, which was chopped chicken with bone in, dry sauteed with black beans, hot chili peppers, garlic, and green onions. There was no sauce to this dish, just tons of flavor from the fragrant ingredients. I highly recommend this.
Chicken Bumkin

Chicken Bumkin

Twice Cooked Pork Belly - with large leaks, red chili peppers, and red cooked pork, this was exceptional, although I lamented the pork belly wasn’t cooked long enough to make the fat melt like butter in your mouth. Still, dry sauteed, with so much flavor I can’t really complain. It was perfect in its own way.
2X Pork

Twice Cooked Pork

Sauteed Frog Hunan style – sauteed with button mushrooms, red chili peppers, green onions and garlic, this was probably one of my favorites. The frog was perfectly cooked, but more importantly, the mushrooms were too– firm, without any sogginess, and extremely well paired with the frog as the textures were so similar and yet the flavors so different that it make a silky party in your mouth.
Frog... Ribbit

Frog... Ribbit

Braised Cabbage Soup – who knew there was a vegetable called “wahwah?” My mom and I didn’t… but apparently, it’s baby Chinese cabbage, and it’s was served in a white broth that had scallions, country ham (think Virginia salt ham), little medicinal tree seeds (I can’t remember the English word for it) and (wait for it…) A WHOLE THOUSAND YEAR OLD EGG!!!!!! Not cut up in tiny pieces, but served quartered, to give a slightly bitter, umami flavor to the delicate soup. I nearly shit a kitten eating this– it was so delicious, so perfect, and so unexpected.
Braised Cabbage Soup

Braised Cabbage Soup

The service was polite and the management friendly, in particular the owners, a couple who franchised out the Jasmine bubble tea chains that are found in the malls in the area. They, like myself, were tired of running to Rockville, Flushing, LA to find food for themselves and decided to open this restaurant so that they could have a place to eat near their home. A restaurant catered to feed its own, to show off real Chinese food, and to provide it in a relaxing setting.

I can’t help but want to scream “Run, Don’t Walk to This Restaurant!!!” because it’s going to be impossible to get a table there in a few weeks. You know, when Thanksgiving rolls around and it’s packed with the people not working at the mediocre Chinese restaurants in the area.

Hunan Taste
718 N. Rolling Road
Catonsville, MD 21228
410-788-8988

Dishes – $12-20, average

Service: Polite and expedient.

PS– they also have sinks outside the bathroom to wash your hands in before eating. Very asian. :)

Answer

I am writing this in a food coma.

Four of us went to Hunan Taste tonight, and were very impressed. The reviews here are totally on the mark regarding everything from decor to food. The menu is overwhelming, and it took us forever to decide on what to order. Anyway, before I forget, here's a brief rundown:

I need to say up front that we had a goose intestines with radish dish. It was delicious, in a sort of not too hot spicy way, with a slight bitter kick from the dried radish. The texture was chewy (as you might expect) but also crunchy. 

Also had the hot & sour soup, and I don't think I can add anything else to the description here. It was fantastic, and unlike any of version I've ever had.

We also had some "Chinese leek" and dried tofu dish. It, too, was on the spicy side. Very good.

A surprise to all of us was something called Indian lettuce. We had one person in the group who understood written Chinese, and he thought it was was chrysanthemum stems, but it turned out to be some sort of stir fried lettuce. I thought it particularly interesting for lettuce, with a slight smoky flavor. Also, it was cooked perfectly, with just a bit of crunch.

The one not great dish with lamb in a hot pot. It tasted overly gamey and just wasn't all that interesting. 

For the quality of the food (not the mention the decor and service) we were amazed that our check came to a little over $60 including tip. While this place is far, far, far from replacing Grace Garden for me, I look forward to many return visits to explore the menu in depth.

Answer

This round - Marinated Cucumber Appetizer, Indian Lettuce, and Tea Tree Mushroom with Pork in casserole

Marinated cucumber - peeled and seeded chunks of cucumber it a very light and subtle marinade, served cold. Refreshing, very nicely done. In retrospect, though, I would have loved to have a dish of the little pickles flecked with dried red pepper and chili oil that Hunan Legend sometimes provides when one first sits down. This dish was good, but the spice and crunch of the H.L. pickles would have been a more perfect balance with the other dishes I had. Still, one can't penalize this dish for not being the other dish. 

Indian lettuce - some sort of green that didn't look like any lettuce I'm familiar with, light sauce (maybe chicken stock, garlic, and perhaps some sesame oil to give it that smoky hint?) Again, very nice dish, executed well. As somebody else has noted, it was cooked perfectly, hitting just right balance between wilting and residual crunchiness. 

Tea Tree Mushroom with Pork - If you love mushrooms, get this dish. I'm hesitant to rave about it as much as I'm about to after only one try - maybe it just really hit me out of all proportion. Maybe I was just jonesing for mushrooms, but didn't know it. Maybe I just got really, really lucky. That said, WOW! 

In this dish, one finds some unfamiliar form of mushrooms, a little bit of diced green onion, a little bit of sliced chili, small dice of pork belly (you don't really notice the pork flavor - it merely enhances the mushroom) all percolating away in a mini-wok casserole on a sterno stand. I'm not sure if there's actually a sauce, or if the liquid that is present is merely the intermingled juices of the various ingredients released by the heat. Whatever it is, you'll want every last drop.

The net effect of the dish is like a distilled essence of mushroom. If you were to be able to look up "mushroom" in the flavor dictionary, this is the taste you'd find. And along with the flavor, there is some very interesting textural and "mouth feel" things going on - soft, crunchy, "melt-in-your-mouth" all intermingling in every bite. 

As I said, I want to try it again, just to see if it really was that good - we're talking mega-mushroom orgasmatron, folks. It doesn't seem possible that any dish, no matter how well prepared or how much I may have been "in the mood" for it, would taste that good. Halfway through the meal, I was plotting ways to kidnap the chef. Just amazing.

Score for the evening - I'd probably not order the marinated cucumber again. Not a bad dish, just not as interesting as I would like. Indian lettuce would be a definite re-order any time I was looking for an interesting dish in the sauteed greens category. Very nicely executed. Tea Tree Mushroom with Pork - every time I go back to Hunan Taste, it's going to be a temptation to re-order this dish and explore no further. Or perhaps the debate will be what to order in addition to the Tea Tree Mushrooms, akin to the way some folks can't bear to visit Grace Garden and not get the Fish Noodles, or the cold Triple Treasure dish, or whatever one's "OMG!" favorite is there.

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Not sure why the CH Police deleted my long post. I'll try and repost it from memory. In the meantime, I scanned the menu.

As two jpegs:
http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/8748/page1yu.jpg
http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/75/page2kj.jpg

As PDF (probably not printable):
http://www.sendspace.com/file/0j7feo

Answer

I went there for lunch today after stopping across the street for a can of Kirin. The restaurant is Grace Garden grown up, as far as decor goes...very pretty, with a man in a tie directing folks to tables. Just about everyone in there was Asian but me! I sat down and was told I was looking at the Americanized menu, so I quickly switched to the bigger, thicker one...191 items on it! Since double cooked pork is my go-to to see if a restaurant is up to par, I ordered it. The waitress brought me out a complimentary dish of edamame and unsalted, shelled peanuts. ( is there a special significance to the peanuts? I've never seen that before).The pork came out 5 minutes later and I must say, I have NEVER had better. Thin and thick slices of belly, with scallion, red chili, jalapeno, ginger....and maybe a hint of lemongrass...and many large, sweet cloves of garlic. It was fabulous! Very little sauce which also made it different. i didn't even open the rice pot...and almost could finish the whole thing...have a few spoons left over from dinner! During the meal, at least 3 different waitstaff came over to see if I needed anything....excellent service. The waitress who brought me the dish made sure the plate was placed just so, so that the Chinese character at the top of the plate was facing me.
I can't wait to go back....want to try the tea tree with mushroom mentioned above...that's if I can ever get away from that pork!
Also, here's a tip. If you're planning on hitting HMart...do so AFTER Hunan Taste. You won't spend near as much since you will be stuffed!!!

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Having just had a spectacular meal here http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/668736#5209865 I would argue that comparing it to Grace Garden is a disservice. I am not of a type to want to try to reduce wines, meals, restaurants etc to a single rank. This is one truly outstanding restaurant and Grace Garden in another. But the overall experiences are so different. Hunan Taste is lighter and far less spicy, with a range of flavors that is quite different than the more Sichuan oriented GG. I am not expert in Hunan cuisine, but Hunan taste is a totally different flavor palate than GG and I will ahve both in my rotation. GG is more robust and boldly flavored, without the delicasy of HT. Add Sichuan Pavillion into the mix and you ahve three amazing and amazingly different places to eat!

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Six of us had a post-Thanksgiving lunch at Hunan Taste today. We have all spent a good deal of time at Grace Garden, and actually ordered dishes similar to the ones of their menu (although not on purpose, but maybe subconsciously?) as well as some items that have been reviewed here, and one or two new ones.

We started with clam soup with winter melon soup, which got the meal off to a great start. Light ginger infused broth with a few clams and slivers of winter melon. Simplicity as its best. 

Then, in no particular order, we had the following:

A triple treasures type dish, which is actually listed on the appetizer menu as ox lung. (We learned this from our intrepid Mandarin speaker in the group.) It had pretty much the same proportions of tongue, tripe, and tendon as the Grace Garden version, and similarly spiced, however, what it was missing--and this would become a theme throughout our meal--was the layers of texture found in the GG version.

From the app menu, we also ordered the Chicken Bumpkin. As described in this thread, it's cold bone in chicken, which was very moist and had good chicken flavor, but not incredibly exciting. 

Going on recommendations here, we ordered the tea tree mushroom with pork. Some in the group loved this one, and it did have a great, earthly, mushroomy mushroom flavor. I though it was interesting enough, but it was not the one I reached for for seconds.

An immediate hit with the group was an Hunan style snail dish. This one was really bold and spicy with very, very chewy snails. It was very easy to imagine spicy the flavor palette being used effectively for chicken, shrimp, pork, tofu, etc.

We also had a pork belly dish with rice powder. It came out in a round mold shape, and it looked like something into which you'd dip tortilla chips or crackers. It was on the sweet side, and the rice powder was well cooked, and soft. One in the group liked the texture of that rice powder, but I preferred it on the crunchier side to add a bit of texture.

The whole fish (which was described as looking like a rockfish but not a rockfish) was very well executed with light flesh and flavorful sauce of ginger and garlic and some chilies. 

For our green veg, we had snow pea tips. Nothing earth shattering, but a good green cooked well.

Speaking for the group, we all agreed that the food was very, very good, and it would take just a bit of creativity--a sprinkling of chopped peanuts, or scallions, etc. --to make many of these dishes great.

We all want to return to continue exploring the menu. And, I'm sure that some the post-Thanksgiving lunch party will chime in and give their opinions, and correct me if I'm wrong or omitted anything....

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Two of us visited Hunan taste on Wed evening. The menu is almost overwhelming but we only ordered two items. The tea mushroom with pork was good but not as a main entree. The pork, only present as flavouring, I found the dish a little plain. I would recommend trying this as a side hot pot rather than a main dish. The spicy fish fillets were very good all though not that spicy. As warned small bones were present which I did not mind. 

I look forward to returning to explore the menu, however my dining partner who had to battle holiday traffic from Lauel to meet me, did not rate the restaurant a destination place such as Grace Garden. On a recent visit to G.G. we had the sechaun fish which had much more intense and complex flavours than the H.T. spicy fish. The G.G. fish came on a bed of leeks in a hot spicy sauce and was topped with a generous heaping of crunchy garlic.

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After several visits, I'm coming to the conclusion that there's a bit of chance involved at Hunan Taste. I'm not sure if there are two lead chefs, or one chef with a staff that has not yet been fully trained, or a lead chef with one set of recipes that he uses himself, and another simpler version ("idiot proof", perhaps?) that he gives his staff to use.

I've had two dishes where the rendition I received was markedly different from that commended by another on the board. In these case, I only had each dish once, but found myself scratching my head over the apparent difference between what I had and what others were reporting. 
Bumpkin Chicken - I and others have posted about a version of this dish that is clearly distinct from, and inferior to, that which Tizinu had, enjoyed, and photographed.
Mao's Pork Belly casserole - highly praised by others, I found it good, but not THAT good.

I might have written both of those off as anomalies, but I've now had similar instances of repeats on two dishes, where one rendition was good, and definitely better than the Baltimore competition (not counting Grace Garden in the Baltimore pool), but nowhere near the sublime version I had the other time. Those two dishes were the Tea Tree Mushroom with Pork and the the Dry-Fried String Beans with Pork. 

The last instance is the "ox lung slices" appetizer. I had this on a prior visit and it was wonderful. Not exactly the same as the Grace Garden version, but similarly complex, subtle and full of layers of flavor and texture. I couldn't understand what other posters were marking it down for when comparing it to the similar dish at Grace Garden. Then I had the dish again, and that time, I got exactly what other posters have described - tolerable, tasty, but fairly one-dimensional in both flavor and texture. 

In this case, I'm pretty certain that while this is the same nominal dish, it was not even the same recipe from the one visit to the next, which makes me wonder if there are also two completely different Bumpkin Chicken recipes, rather than a server-kitchen mix-up. The divergence between the "Wow" ox-lung slice dish and the "OK" version was just as marked as that between the two versions of Bumpkin Chicken that have been mentioned elsewhere on this thread. 

In short, I've become convinced that there's somebody in that kitchen who I'd put on a par with Chef Li from Grace Garden and the talented but transitory Chef Zhang from China Star, Temptasian, and whatever other places in NoVA he served before heading off to Atlanta. The problem is that it appears that the really good chef at Hunan Taste is either not always there, or is not involved in the preparation of every dish. Unfortunately, one doesn't know when the really good chef is on duty, or which dishes will get farmed off to the helpers if that's the scenario.

I'm reminded of an Indian place in Indiana that had a lunch buffet with two chefs who were polar opposites in their approach to the same dishes. One guy was all about subtle variations in flavors and spicing, while the other's technique was bold, brash, anything but subtle (though very delicious), and positively incendiary in "heat" levels. I recall getting a call from a friend who knew I was in the area saying "Get over to Tandoor for lunch - Flamethrower Joe is up to bat!" 

I'm coming to the conclusion that Hunan Taste has a similar situation. I doubt one will get a bad meal there - even the lesser of the chefs is pretty good. But it seems to be a bit of a gamble as to whether one will get the treat of enjoying the talents of whoever it is in that kitchen who is the really talented one. There's enough difference in both style and even the underlying recipes that I can no longer go with the theory that it's the same guy occasionally having a dish or two go out that's not up to his best.

Not sure if that helps, but I thought I'd toss my theory out there for others to consider, or even for the management of H.T. to confirm or deny. Maybe that's one advantage that Grace Garden has, being small enough that you know that whatever comes out has been either prepared by chef Li himself, or at very least, directly overseen by him.

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I want to hear about Hunan Taste, so keep the topic there and not the nuances of some other restaurant that shall not be named, I honestly dont care. 

That being said, I went with a friend to Hunan Taste yesterday and it was downright excellent. We had cabbage and pork soup -- a very light broth, a small amount of ground pork and a lot of bright, fresh cabbage. It was light but well seasoned.. perfect for a chilly day as it was. Definitely didn't realize how large it was going to be -- one order would handily serve 2-4 people. 

Next we had beef tendon with "caraway"? Im not sure what they meant but it certainly wasnt caraway. The tendon was jelly like, served in a LARGE portion with some cilantro, and definitely some heat to it. I dunno if I could finish even a 3rd of a portion.. definitely another one to be shared. 

Next we had I think it was shrimp in lotus leaf.. they were presented in the bamboo steamer, between 12 and 20 head-on shrimp, well cooked with a pleasant garlicky flavor. There was some difficulty in eating the shrimp, and Im personally not that crazy about them, but my friend did enjoy them, but probably would order something else that would be less hassle. 

The dish I got was the smoked ox tongue stir fry.. and wow this was one of the best things Ive had in a long time. The meat was sliced moderately thin, in a heaping pile along with fresno chiles, celery, ginger, scallions. The meat itself was extremely rich, yet the aforementioned vegetables and aromatics would cut through that richness into something really nicely balanced. Again the meat itself while it said smoked, I would describe it more as charred on a grill flavor, but in a very pleasant way, like a nice fatty steak. 

Oh and I almost forgot we ordered some taro pancakes as well -- freshly fried, extremely crispy and not greasy, and inside was the rich and almost gummy taro.. on the verge of being dessert. Definitely great for that "fried" fix I know you have. 

I admit we chose some relatively "tame" choices, I would definitely go back and explore further. A couple to our left ordered a whole fish that looked amazing, and we saw go by a sizzling platter that smelled like wood -- some item that was served on a wood plank.

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Seven of us feasted at Hunan Taste tonight. While it was my third time there, the rest of the crew were HT virgins.

We had the clam and winter melon soup (I think it's called clam & white gourd soup on the menu). Again, it was excellent.

On the recommendations here, we had the Mao pork belly. We found it particularly good, with a rich, five spice-y sauce. 

As I had during the the post-Thanksgiving feast, the fresh whole rockfish was again excellent, and this time served with loads of cilantro.

On the owner's recommendation, we traded out spicy shredded chicken (or something like that) for the crispy duck. While some thought it very good, there were those who found the skin too crispy. While I didn't find a good meat to bone ratio, the duck I did find was deee-lish.

In addition, we had a lo mein with shrimp. Very well executed, with thin, flat rice noodles, but not terribly exciting.

Finally, for our veg, we ordered a lotus with corn dish since they were out of the excellent Indian lettuce. It proved to be a very crisp and light and somewhat sweet compliment to all our other dishes.

On the personnel front, this was my first time meeting the young, energetic owner, Na, who came over to our table right after we had ordered to make suggestions. She was very excited to see "American people" ordering "authentic" Chinese food. In fact, she seems to be on a mission to introduce those who rarely stray from the General Tso's chicken and beef with broccoli to the "authentic" Chinese stuff, and actually said that people who wanted American-Chinese food can go to the little Chinese place in the same strip mall for their $4 lunch menu. We all found that very endearing.

And, we will all definitely be back for more.

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I stopped by last night for the preserved pork (they call it sausage) with smoked bamboo, which was excellent. I also had the pigeon soup ("steamed dish") which wasn't translated on the menu--one of only a couple of secret items. The waiter told me it was some kind of bird, but Happily, I've been playing "Chinese Word Search" on my iPhone and can now recognise the characters for some of the simpler fowl. That was pretty generic bird soup. 

The pork, however, was chewy and flavorful; the smoked bamboo at first reminded me of sea cucumber, and I had to ask what it was. It was somewhat woody, and very slightly chewy. The dish also included a fair amount of ginger and garlic, as well as some scallions and preserved hot peppers.

I do have to say, from what I can tell, this is in fact authentic Hunan cooking--lots of preserved meats and things like pickled hot peppers. The menu is huge--several kinds of frog, turtle, preserved meats, even fresh lily bulb. I don't expect to be eating anywhere else for the remainder of my visit to DC, perhaps even skipping New Big Wong. If it continues to provide gems like the pork, it could be the Lao Sichuan of the South.

-----
Hunan Taste
718 N Rolling Rd, Catonsville, MD 21228

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Menus from Hong Fu Xiang Garden AKA Hunan Taste are now on Flickr. Translate away, earthlings.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kraquehaus/sets/72157623511287608/

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