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Extraordinary Dinner At Maestro


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Extraordinary Dinner At Maestro

Joe H. | Jul 8, 2004 02:26 PM

Last night my wife and I had our first dinner at Maestro since the 14 course Blowout in February. This was sensational. In particular there were two new dishes that anyone going there should give serious consideration to ordering. One is off the menu and must be requested.

Fabio has introduced a foie gras risotto with castelmagnio cheese and truffle sauce. Three one inch "chunks" of foie gras top this dish which must be as over the top as anything I have ever had.

Off the menu is his interpretation of a "veal chop, Maestro style, for two." This is a serious contender for the title of single most delicious dish in any restaurant in this city. A butterflied boneless veal chop is served with celery, carrots, pearl onion and grapes with pancetta in a sauce incorporating an intense stock reduction with roasting juices. Along side is his version of what elsewhere may be known as Robuchon's mashed potatoes. My considered guess is that these are literally two parts potato and one part unsalted butter with some heavy cream for good artery clogging measure!

He also has a new amuse which is a warm, peeled cherry tomato which you are instructed to taste whole and then drink its accompaniment, a vial of cold tomato soup which is pure in flavor and contrasts nicely to the warm tomato.

Maestro and Laboratorio both continue to improve with new flavors and textures (recent dinner at Laboratorio was also extraordinary!). Simply, among the best anywhere. We are fortunate to have them here.

For those who haven't seen the photos the link below chronicles the February dinner with closeups of every dish.


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