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Belkisw | Jan 2, 202202:23 AM     2

I was in Berlin in December and wanted to share my thoughts on Ernst. This was an exquisite meal, one of those meals worth travelling for. The space is lovely, and the team of chefs have a very well-rehearsed choreography so you never see them bumping into each other or reaching over each other, despite the many course, sometimes with several prep elements. That is key- I have eaten in restaurants with open kitchens before where there is less harmony, which directly impacts the dining experience.

The meal itself was one of the most thoughtful progressions I have ever had. When I ate there in early December 2021, the main themes were a) citrus (and what an incredible variety of citrus fruits were featured!) and b) the spirit of the ocean (manifested in different ways including through dashis, oysters, and razor clams). The chef wove the meal around these themes with such elegance and consistency, and elements of constant surprise. The texture of each dish was perfection, this chef understands texture intimately and how to use it to enhance a dish. This chef has mastered the art of editing down, something I really appreciated. Every element in every bite was there for a reason, and overall the meal ate like a perfect and harmonious symphony where not a single note was out of place. My only quibble was that the chef uses very little salt, which in most dishes was fine, but there were just one or two bite where a few salt crystals would have elevated the dish even more.

The wine was excellent, as was my friend’s juice pairing.

This is a meal that will stay with me for a long time, and I am very excited to go back again soon.

ernst
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