I am looking for a restaurant to celebrate my birthday in Feb.. I have always wanted to try EMP but am concerned about reviews that say the waiters' fussing detracts from the atmosphere. I have been to Gramercy before, but not with chef Michael Anthony. I like the intimacy of the dining room as well as the food. Looking for great food and preferably not a pretentous atmosphere. While presentation is important, I don't want miniscule portions. Other suggestions are welcome.