Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area Cambridge

Dionysos, Radisson Hotel (!) on Memorial Drive, Cambridge


Restaurants & Bars 8

Dionysos, Radisson Hotel (!) on Memorial Drive, Cambridge

Limster | Jul 25, 2002 10:32 PM

Dionysos is a Greek storefront, white paint and agean-poster-covered in-the-middle-of-urban-chaotic-nowhere kind of taverna-aspiring small restaurant trapped in a plushy deep carpetted hotel.

The existence of a place like this felt totally paradoxical, and the cognitive dissonance drove me a little nuts.

The last time I ate at a hotel restaurant was at Jester's in the Hotel Argent in SF when they had an Portugese promotion that offered decent food but was way overpriced. Almost a year later, I'm still trying to shrug off that experience. (Yes -- Portugese food is *that* rare in SF.)

This time, I did better. Dionysos is not going to rock your world, but it does have a homey and honest sense of place. There is a palpable sense that the food is put together with human hands, and that feeling was most evident in the platter of dips. The melazisalata (sp?) was actually stunningly good for an eggplant puree. It wasn't pulp, but still retained some of the native soft eggplant texture in with nearly intangible chunkiness, the soft articulated between the softer interstices. There's an invisible sweetness in the ripe eggplant flavor and in the sharp crunchy raw red onions bits (blissfully without any of the the sulphuric harshness of raw onions). A curious sprinkle of what seemed to be scallions actually worked nicely. It was well lubricated with olive oil and served as the height of the meal.

The lowest point was the taramasalata, which was thick and creamy but weak in the flavor department. More fish eggs plaease.

Other dips on the platter were quite good. A dill fragrant tzatizki with a good soft and creamy texture and a nice strong undercurrent of garlic. A mild feta concoction (not mentioned on the menu -- I was expecting 3 not 4 dips) was also competently made.

The flat bread was served warm (good) but an occasional piece felt stiff (bad).

Saganaki, a cheese fritter zested up with a squeeze of lemon, turn out somewhat above average. The solid batter wasn't soggy and held the ok molten cheese within fairly well.

I was fairly happy with the broiled octopus. These eight-legged devils aren't exactly the easiest thing to cook, and the kitchen aquitted itself well -- the thick tenacles came out fairly moist and firm without any chewiness; I loved the caramelized surfaces. The menu advertised a lemon and olive oil flavoring, but there were dark pools suspended in the lagoon of olive oil that suggested vinegar to me. Straightforward and simple and good to eat.

The rice pudding dessert was somewhat pedestrian, gelled into a bowl. Cinnamon and white sugar dominated, the rice pudding a merely vehicle for the two. I would have prefered a moister rice pudding with a tiny bit of complexity in the rice flavor.

On whole a decent meal ($38ish for above and a serving of stirring ouzo, not counting tip). I'm not rushing to go back, mainly because the hotel ambiance confuses me, but if I ever craved that eggplant dip, I'd head for Dionysos.

Want to stay up to date with this post?

Recommended From Chowhound