Restaurants & Bars 2

Dinner at Lonesome Dove Western Bistro (Ft. Worth)

zin1953 | Mar 31, 200810:28 PM

So, we flew into the "Dallas-Ft. Worth Metroplex" for a conference on DUI law, and one of the places we made reservations for dinner was the Lonesome Dove Western Bistro. Now, skeptics among you -- myself included -- may wonder just how Chef Tim Love doesn't get sued for (mis-)appropriating the name of Larry McMurtry's most famous novel. Maybe he got paid off. Maybe he's a silent partner. Maybe . . . ah well, whatever.

Virginia and Lynn both had the special cucumber and jalapeno margarita with salt, while I opted for a glass of Charles Heidsieck Champagne.

We began with appetizers of Seared Foie Gras Tacos which were truly outstanding; Smoked and Braised Rabbit Empanadas, that were more empanada and not much rabbit; and Lobster and Blue Cheese hushpuppies that -- although delicious -- could have used a bit more lobster.

Then we had a red and gold beet salad with goat cheese and watercress; a salad with butter lettuce with chile buttermilk, goat cheese, spiced pepitas and candied jalapenos; and a spicy quash soup -- all very good.

For our entres, Lynn and Virginia chose Tim Love's signature "Roasted Garlic Stuffed Beef Tenderloin with Western Plaid Hash, Grilled Asparagus and Syrah Demi-Glace", while I ordered the "Grilled New Zealand Red Deer Chops with White Truffled Mac and Cheese, Fried Artichoke, and Morel Mushroom Demi-Glace."

Now Lynn likes her beef rare. Very rare. Blue. But -- understandably -- Lynn doesn't like her tenderloin COLD. Which it was the first time it appeared at our table. But after it had been properly warmed through, it was fantastic! The deer chops were also quite tasty, and the 2005 Ridge Geyserville was a perfect match to our meal.

OK, so what's the bottom line? Although we all enjoyed our meal, I'm not sure we'd go back. It's almost more of a "been there, done it -- only in Texas" sort of a meal. I didn't feel ripped off by the price, nor was the "cowtown decor" over-the-top to the point of being tacky. I mean, Disneyland it's not -- the food is MUCH better! -- but it does stretch the limit for this non-Texan.

Then again, maybe it's just because I'm a Californian, rather than a Texan, but I don't think the sign behind the bar warning customers that carrying a concealed firearm inside the restaurant is punishable by a $10,000 fine was a joke.

Or maybe it's just the kind of a place that grows on you . . . we'll see the next time we're in Ft. Worth.


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