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Restaurants & Bars 1

Dinkeytown (Mpls): Wood-fired pizza has arrived

David A. | May 9, 200211:08 AM

A new pizza/pasta place called Mangia just opened on University Ave. next to the Dinkydome, across the street from Folwell Hall at the U.

Mangia corrects a crucial pizza deficit in Dinkytown, and serves up decent wood-fired, brick-oven pizza to boot! I had an inaugural margherita yesterday and found it pretty good: light crispy crust, quality cheese, decent flavor. The pizza is not far off the Punch standard, though I think it could use a touch more salt in the crust. The pizzas are individual serving but respectably sized. All the same, in my opinion, they're a bit pricey at $7.50-$9. The pastas, which I spied as they passed, looked good as well, but I cannot vouch for them.

Mangia is billing itself as a Mediterranean restaurant, which means that it incongruously serves things like kebabs and baklava in addition to the pizza and pasta. This makes the place seem a bit more dilettantish than it really is. It's probably a marketing mistake.

I'm not sure I would make a special trip to eat at Mangia, but, along with Annie's, it's a strong contender as the top choice for a bite in Dinkytown. I would certainly eat at Mangia before Loring Pasta Bar (unless one is hound for yuppie atmospherics), Vescio's (unless one is a hound for second-rate Little Italy pastiche), or Shuang Cheng.

David A.

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