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Restaurants & Bars 1

Devereaux's - Greenville, SC (long)

danna | Sep 12, 200509:55 AM

We had dinner at Devereaux's on Friday night, about 30 minutes late for our reservation(we got separated during the Hincappie parade), and the hostesses were very nice about it. The restaurant actually has a parking lot...nice downtown.

The food was very good. This statement rarely comes out of my mouth (fingers, as it were) when I'm in G'ville. We had the chef's tasting menu. After the white cheddar/thyme biscuits, it began with tuna tataki (refered to as "tartar-style" by our waiter) on rounds of pineapple. [Reisling] The next course was a perfectly cooked scallop w truffle oil. [Tempranillo] Afterwards a nice piece of grouper, again, just barely cooked. I believe the sauce was a sunchoke emulsion. [Soave] Finally, two pieces of Kobe beef. It was served w/ polenta and brussel sprout flecks. [South African syrah] The most memorable thing was fermented barley w/ yuzu. I can't remember which plate it came with. Dessert was a trio of citrus. a panna cotta, a chocolate and orange napolean, and a poopy seed cake sculpture w/ lemon sorbet. These were all very good...not just "for looks".

I may have switched around some of the meats/accompaniments/pairings. No, not because I was tipsy from the wine. The four pours were exquisitely tiny and I was still sober in spite of my $30. I was just beside myself from the general excitement of the festivities, and Lance showing up.(sorry Leah, I would have told you, but I thought the rumor would be false) So, apologies if I have described something wrong.

Let me restate that everything was delicious and I have no complaints whatsoever about the quality of creativity of the food. Now come the criticisms: I felt like I was on the Atkins diet. There was hardly a spec of vegetable or other carbohydrate on the plate. The three one-inch diameter, 1/8 thick rounds of pineapple, one inch cube of tomato, a couple of brussel sprout leaves, and a Tbls. of polenta was IT for carbs until you got to dessert. It feels unhealthy and less than satisfying to me if I don't get some vegetables, not to mention it's still summer, and local produce should be fantastic. My husband was still hungry and went home to a bowl of cereal. Two tasting menus and one wine pairing came to $203 with tip.

Oh, and speaking of tip, I rounded down from 20%. Our waiter started off fine, but abandoned us right before dessert. A runner dropped the desserts off w/ no explanations and then after our dishes were cleared, we waited 15 minutes to pay, and only accomplished that by flagging down the bread guy (Visa card lying on the table did not work)

So, in conclusion, very good food, and ambitious in a way not normally seen in Greenville, but not some place I would frequent, too expensive, and not completely satisfying because of the lack of any emphasis on produce.

Bonus review: I stopped at Sobe's for a glass of wine in their outdoor courtyard while I waited for my husband and the parade. They gave me a huge glass of skanky, hot, no-fruit Albarino that the waiter pushed. I imagine the bottle had been opened for a month and they wanted to get rid of it. This was after I stood at the host stand while at least 3 employees walked past me and finally I had to announce to the assembled, "ARE YOU OPEN?" As 5:30 neared, people were waiting in line to have their car valeted so they could enjoy an evening at Sobe's. Now THAT'S a true Greenville experience ;-)

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