After reading a few write-ups on this board, we decided to give Desano a try for a very late lunch. Ordered the Margherita D.O.P. with salsiccia and the Verdura – broccoli rabe, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, garlic, buffalo mozzarella - both in the smaller size.
First impression is that the place is absolutely huge! There’s seating for well over a hundred in three different rooms. A giant walk-in takes up some of the space and four wood fired ovens line the back wall.
Second impression is that it was empty at 3 PM. Aside from an Italian family chatting with a guy we presumed to be the owner, my dad and I were the only people in the joint.
The pizzas came out after a few minutes and looked solid. Crust edged with a little char but the middle could have been a bit more well done.
The Margherita was tasty in a minimalist way. The sauce was the highlight, tangy and tasting heavily of tomato not overpowered by herbs. Velvety smooth cheese and perhaps a bit too much sausage.
The Verdura was easily my favorite. The combo of bitter sautéed rapini, garlic and buffalo mozzarella was fantastic.
The crust on both was chewy with just a hint of crunch around the edges. No sogginess in the middle.
Although one could look at the smaller size pizzas as “personal,” they’re on the large side for one. We ate our fill and had plenty left over.
As we were leaving, the owner/manager approached and asked if we enjoyed our meal. We replied in the affirmative and asked how business was going. He frowned and said things were slow but perked up and added that they will start serving beer and wine next week.
I hope this place succeeds, as the food was very good – I’d say on par if not a bit better than Mother Dough but at a lower price point. My worry is that they’re in a culinary wasteland stuck in the ass-end of East Hollywood. If they were a bit further east, they could play more successfully to the Silver Lake crowd.
Of the newer pizzas in the area, DeSano is leaps and bounds better than Wood, the place that took over the Tom’s Burgers space on Sunset/Parkman.
DeSano Pizza Bakery
4959 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90029