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Czech and Slovak Club Restaurant, Hampstead, London

limster | Apr 20, 2008 10:20 AM

In a comforting cabbage soup with a gentle veil of cream are slices of smokey pork sausage with a hint of spiciness.

The deep beefy flavour of a nice hunk of wild boar get a fruity polish with a compote of dark fruit and a sharp wedge of orange. Boiled sauerkraut is great, perfect sourness, firm crisp texture. The enveloping cream sauce is rich rich rich and the thick slices of white bread that soak it up are soft and pillowy. Shredded cheese and cucumber don't do much for me here, but aren't disruptive.

Homey warm bready dumpling shells enclose soft, bright apricot. A light vanilla/cinnamon sauce and whipped cream from a can (as it should be). A motherly dish.

The restaurant is set in a house with dark reds and woods and all the right trimmings. Puts one in the perfect mood for this type of food.

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