I lived in Rome for 17 years and took good agnolotti, as ravioli was called locally, for granted. In the U.S., I've had good ravioli only a couple of times: once around 1980 in an Italian restaurant in North Boston, and once in Seattle in the mid nineties. The latest debacle involved ravioli so large you had to cut them in four pieces to eat them, with a good three cheese filling and tough pasta (tough--not al dente) swimming in a mushroom broth with portobello and shitake mushrooms that were buried under so much (good) bacon that everything else was overwhelmed by salt and smoke. I longed for simple porcini ravioli tossed in butter flavored with sage and maybe a bit of speck. I loved stuffed pasta all'uova--whether in a clear broth or in a light sauce. Is it possible to find a dish that simple in American restaurants? Or do I always have to make it myself?