Restaurants & Bars 1

Croatia: Zadar & Hvar report

mark | Sep 24, 200406:41 PM


Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2
Located just outside the Land Gate, with a huge terrace that over looks a small harbor.  I ordered some Dalmatian ham (49 kn), Pag cheese (38 kn) and house white (1L, 27 kn) while looking over the menu.  Their ham was probably the best I had during my whole trip - it was smoky, silky on the tongue - the right balance of fat and meat, thinly sliced.   I decided to try the marinated anchovies (35 kn) and the frutti de mare risotto (55 kn).  The marinated anchovies were presented very simply - a drizzle of olive oil. Pleasant and fresh. The risotto was great - the mussels, scampi and clams, the toothy rice.

Liburnska obala 6, Zadar
In Your pocket ( http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/z... )  state: "...looking really good on its Riva setting, with a delightful, refined interior. A classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities, a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Although the menu is basically inclined to Dalmatian and inland Croatian cuisine, the chef is quite inventive..." After being seated the waiter brought a little amuse - a dish with fish pate and a couple of fresh anchovies. I started with tuna carpaccio ( 65 kn) - a substantial plate of thinly sliced tuna carpaccio on rocket greens , sprinkled with huge, fat juicy capers. This dish was wonderful - it wasn't until the end that I tried it with a drizzle of olive oil. Next I tried the gnocci with Dalmatian ham and rocket (30 kn) - a creamy light sauce, fluffy light gnocci, strips of Dalmatian ham and wilted rocket - very nice. For my main dish I tried the fish fillet with scampi sauce (100 kn) - which was okay.   The waiter recommended a white - Debit, Bibich (120 kn) - which was pleasant and complimented the meal.  I enjoyed my meal here so much I came back for dinner the next night.  Started with a glass of Travarica, Croatian grappa, (10 kn) then tried their Dalmatian ham (45 kn) - which was chewier, thicker, not smoked. Gnocci with gorgonzola and pine nuts (40 kn), was so good I almost licked the plate. Lamb in a rosemary + red wine sauce (65 kn) was tender and properly cooked.   For wine I had a Babic, Vinopiod (170 kn) - a deep red and a nice match to the ham, gnocci and lamb. Also, the restaurant has a very stylish modern ambience.

Jerolima Viduliæa 5
098 532 057
Located behind the Forum, "this konoba is set in the most stunning of sheltered gardens with the foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva as its centerpiece". Trata is a large fishing net. I ordered the octopus salad which had potatoes mixed into it, which was a nice contrast to the firm octopus (40 kn) and Dalmatian ham. For my main dish, I ordered the trata stew - which consisted of fish, scampi, shrimps and potatoes cooked in a tomato paprika broth. It was very well seasoned and flavorful but the numerous bones were a bit problematic. The garden is so pleasant I came back the next afternoon for some more ham and house wine. The owner comped me dessert - Anatasia's dream - fresh yogurt and berries, thicken with a bit of gelatin - tart and juicy - a real treat.

Put Dikla 74
This restaurant was vote one of Croatia's top 100 restaurants last year - they specialize in seafood, their menu has very little meat - you'll need to take a cab to get there. In the center of the restaurant is a huge tank containing lobsters. I decided to indulge and order a whole lobster, grilled - and at 400 kn for 1 KG, it was a definte indulgence. I also order some razor clams (80n kn) as a primi - which were served in a garlic herbed sauce. The lobster arrived split in half and grilled, along with an aoili type sauce. The smoke from the grill infused the lobster meat with a wonderful aroma. The flavor was pleasant - maybe a bit dry - and only cost 260 kn. For wine I had a liter of the house white (50 kn). Roko is very popular with the locals and gets crowded in the evening.

Restaurant Zadar
Vl. Stanko Miletic
This is the only restaurant I found with outside seating, located on the Riva Nova, where you can catch the sun setting over the Zadar archipelago. I ordered a few appetizers - frutti de mare salad which had mussels, lobster, shrimp, tomatoes, garlic, lemon, olives - very good. Girice - small fish that were breaded and fried - I love these when their hot, a squeeze of lemon, pop 'em into your mouth whole - the only problem, the serving was huge so I was only able to get through half before they were cold. And some Dalmatian ham again. Watching the sun set, the ferries and boast going by, people walking along the Riva Nova - this is a beautiful setting. I watch the colors of the sky shift from pinks and oranges to violet to deep blue while also reflected in the water.


St. Stephan square
This place and Alviz (located near the bus station, behind St. Stephan) were recommended as the best places for pizza in Hvar.  This was my this first time for trying Croatian pizza (35 kn) - not bad - fluffy crust, a sprinkling of dried herbs - a pleasant lunch.   And the location on the square can't be beat.

Hvar Grad
Dinko is still serving great food - the slovenia sausage was spicy, the marinated anchovies were prepared differently this time and bit more subtle in flavor but very meaty, the goat cheese and honey was a nice finish. My waiter also told me the order in which to eat the dishes - sausage, fish then cheese. The local goat cheese isn't firm nor tart like chevere - it had a more cottage cheese like consistency But what was truly remarkable was the house white - I have never tasted a wine that reminded me of fresh bread - it was really wonderful ( I know this sound a bit odd). His wife's family owns a vineyard on St. Klement.   For dessert I had the drunken figs again and some of Dinko's homemade liquors.

Hvar Grad
With every day being blue cloudless sky it was no surprise tat Macondo was thronged the night I went. Started with a anchovy and seafood pate sampler (40 kn), followed by frutti de mare risotto (80 kn) and then lobster buzara style (250 kn). The risotto was full of plump mussels and clams - the lobster well grilled. Leaving late after a glass of homemade prosec Macondo was still hopping - be sure to make reservations.

Golden Shell
Petra Hektorovica 8
I started with dumplings lasagana (70 kn) - light gnocci in a walnut sauce subtlety flavored with dried herbs, really a revelation of creamy flavors. Rabbit in Hvar sauce with olives (100 kn), a fresh salad with goat cheese, (50 kn) - I could eat one of these every day- and 1/2 L of the house red (40 kn) - all wonderful. His spin on drunken figs was a nice finish to a wonderful meal - macerated figs and fresh berries. Ivo remembered me from my last visit - next time I'll leave the decisions to him.

Knoba Dvor Dubokovic
Try to arrive an hour before sunset and retreat to the upstairs terrace for some wine and prust. The view looking out over the vineyards, Jelsa and the mountains of Bol in the distance as the day slowly shifts to night is beguiling. For my first dinner I tried their salted sardines (5 kn a piece) - they were deep, meaty, almost smoky, a little crunchy from the salt. For my entree I had a whole grilled fish - the flesh scented with the smoke from the grill - so good. I noticed the owner was preparing lamb under the bell for other customers that evening. I made a reservations for another night to come back and try it. The lamb dish is cooked with onions, garlic and carrots under a metal bell with embers scattered on - the long cooking process caramelizes the onions and carrots, making the lamb tender and falling off the bone. The owners can even help you locate a room to rent in Pitve

Konoba Lovrincevic
The only way to get to Dubovica is down a dirt trail which leads you to a wonderfully secluded, pebbled beach cove. There is only one restaurant here - Lovrincevic. After swimming and sunning for few hours I retreated to their shaded patio for some ham and house wine. Afterwards caught some more sun. For lunch I started with their octopus salad - fresh juicy tomatoes, a sprinkling of parsley, some olive oil and firm octopus - this dish almost transported me back to a beach in Huatulco. Whole grilled fish - once again - well prepared - and the house white. I think lunch came to about The quiet lull of the waves on the pebbled beach and few other people made time stand still. For dessert I had a couple glasses of prosec - which is home made - and arrived a deep ruby red, nicely chilled and just the right amount of sweet.

Still the wonderful tranquil place I remember from last year. After I finished giving my order, the owner told me I had ordered too much food and offered to half the servings for me. Tried the octopus salad - light and fresh, with corn, fresh olive oil and lemon. Had the gnocci with gorgonzola, fresh grilled fish, zuchinni and potatoes and the house wine - all satisfying and delicious. The special dish for the day is only offered for dinner. Some mellow jazz in the background - I have to stay here next year for a few days.

Vina Plenkovic
Svete Nedjelja
A beautiful stone restaurant that allows you to sample the various award winning wines. In between tastings I stepped through one of the windows to catch some sun or go for a swim. The south side of the island is a great place to spend the day. Be sure to sample their prosec. A majority of prosec served in restaurants is watered down and added sugar. Prosec should be a deep red / brown (almost like a cream sherry) and slightly heavy.

Konoba Stoncica
Located on the island of Vis, set on a wonderful tranquil sandy cove (a rarity in Croatia) beneath palm fronds. Started with savur marinara (20 kn) which was cooked fish that had been marinated in olive oil, lemon and various herbs and marinated sardines ( 5 kn a piece) that arrived under a blanket of capers, onions, olives and a drizzle of olive oil - both dishes greedily devoured. I order 2nd class fish (80 kn, 1 KG) and potatoes, which were lightly mashed and sprinkled with herbs (20 kn) - all washed down with a 1 liter of house white (40 kn).

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