When a Cantonese restaurant prepares a casserole I like, I keep it in mind and at some point I go there again. But when a restaurant serves a sweet and sour dish I like, it's worth writing about.
Corner 28 has been written up before on this board, but I don't think there have been any reports from people who dined upstairs. Downstairs is like a dingy food mall without the ambiance, but upstairs is another world. Nice decor, well-padded chairs, platoons of waiters and headwaters and busboys... and because I got there early I got one of the tables next to a floor to ceiling window overlooking the crowds thronging down Main Street. The big glossy menu has pictures of every dish. And there are a lot of dishes. Sea bass prepared two ways, goose intestine with preserved mustard and pepper, lots of Dungeness crab preparations, beef with golden straw mushrooms in sha cha sauce, goose feet in abalone sauce. But the sweet and sour fish just looked so good in the photo, and it was only $11 for a whole fish, a croaker (a lot like Shanghai's yellowfish). So I got it.
It came, beautifully fried, split and with some (but not all) bones removed, and topped with diced macerated fruit and peppers and pine nuts. Around it was the sauce, bright red like a takeout nightmare, but as thin as broth, almost no cornstarch, with a lovely flavor more tart and sour than sweet. It was a lovely dish. But next time I'll order something more traditional I bet it's even better. .
40-28 Main St, Flushing