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Restaurants & Bars 6

Cobra Lily Report

JudiAU | Dec 6, 200202:56 PM

8442 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills 310-782-8157

Advice: Wait

I went to Cobra Lily in the old C Bar location the night it opened. Despite the mention in the LAT, they weren't aware they were open. I think everyone else was friends with the owner. I had two glasses of cava served in champagne glasses. Stunned at the $18 bill. $18 for cheap cava?

Note: I would prefer it if they used the squat glasses used for the wine service. Champagne glasses are very un-Spanish. Price is now lower.

I like the decor, especially the stuffed wild boar, but I still preferred the place as C Bar.

Last night I went back with two friends. Two glasses cava (now $6), three glasses of overly chilled sherry ($4.50) and a few dishes. With tip, $96. Cobras & Matadors always seems so cheap because the bill excludes booze. Not so cheap now.

Dishes are more expensive than at Cobras I and served in slightly larger portions, all in the $7-8 range. This mystifies me. This is supposed to be a tapas bar? Why are dishes getting bigger? Nothing on the menu resembles a tapas or a racion.

Finally, most of the dishes are the same as those at Cobras I but they are prepared by a new staff with much less care. Delay going until they get their act together.

*Octopus- tasty, but serving is one tentacle, too small for $8, also served with the same sauce as the cod cakes which is a little repetitive when you eat both

*pam a tomquet- Awful, an outrage! Mealy bread with very little if any toasting. No olive oil. No garlic. Dab of tomato *puree* in the middle of toast. Covered with decent Spanish ham and then, I don't know, microwaved? The fat was oily and awful. Warm to the touch. The whole thing was wrong. (2)

*lomo embuchado with cheese- the best of the lot, good cured pork loin with a little bread and cheese, probably la espanola brand

*asparagus- nice dressing, crisp to a fault

*green salad- harsh dressing, underscored by many vinegar-rific toppings, caperberries, olives, etc.

*cod cakes- not enough cod, too much potato, mushy texture, still pretty good

Service on both cases was fine, even eager.

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