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Citron: A review

Miele Maiale | Sep 21, 200301:12 AM

We dined at Citron for the first time last night. I'd been wanting to try the prix fixe for a while, but unfortunately, none of the courses save the entree were interesting to me. The first two, crab salad and arugula salad, did not pair well with the hefty Loire red I was drinking (we had to wait for a table), or the strangely chilly temparature in the restaurant. So instead, I decided to still enjoy an array of nibbles by ordering the Citron "tapas" platter as my entree. Note that it was almost 10 PM, so a multicourse meal didn't feel necessary. Jason had the "wild" sturgeon with a black grape sauce. Before we began, we were presented with a amuse bouche of two *tiny* slivers of cucumber in a vinaigrette. I couldn't help giggling slightly at this. It reminded me of panchan at a Korean restaurant, except in the form of two tiny raw vegetable pieces, presented with great ceremony. I'm no expert here, but I thought the purpose of this gesture was goodwill and a display of the chef's creativity and scope...

My tapas platter consisted of a pair of Miyagis, the same cucumber with caviar this time, a corn fritter with romesco, salami, olives, gorgeous pear tomatoes in an assertively aged balsamic reduction, and a little roasted quail leg. The oysters were great, but presented without mignonette, although lemon was readily provided when I asked. The quail was so-so, great fritter, decent caviar, fantastic tomatoes, and decent olives. After snacking on Jamon Serrano earlier, the Hobbs salami was a bit anti-climactic, but good.

Jason's (small portion) wild sturgeon tasted like very well-behaved chicken. In fact, I would have easily been fooled had I not known. I'm a stranger to sturgeon, is this fish the original chicken of the sea? The black grape sauce Veronique was, well, sexy. There's just something about roasted grapes and figs... The potato coins were the best roasted potatoes I have *ever* had. I want Citron's duck fat, whereven it comes from!

Dessert was gingerbread pudding in a creme anglaise with gingersnap ice cream. I think it was pretty good, I was stuffed at this point, and too enthralled by our conversation to pay attention.

Service was great. Really great. I liked every employee I interacted with. Overall, the food was impeccable, but not that exciting. For the price, I guess I feel more "wowed" at Lalimes or Rivoli. Our dinner, with no apps, one dessert and two glasses of wine came to $76.00. If these guys pushed the envelope a bit more in terms of flavor and boldness, they'd be in my top 3 list.

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