+
Jeremy Osner | Dec 18, 199807:36 PM     1

Wowee...

For months I have been searching for good Chinese food
within walking distance of my apartment, certain it
must exist yet constantly wavering in my faith. But
tonight I definitely found it. (Well okay, it's a
_long_ walk; but definitely feasible.) David's
Taiwanese, at 84-02 Broadway (corner of St. James Ave.)
is everything I have ever looked for in a restaurant.

The interior is comfortable and nicely decorated; it is
small but not crowded. The tables are set with
_beautiful_ pottery. It is very clean (with an open
kitchen), without feeling antiseptic. The staff is
friendly, attentive and polite almost to a fault; the
one time my cup of tea was empty, a waitress hurried
over to my table and apologized as she filled it.

And of course the food... both dishes I ordered were
marked on the (very nicely designed) menu as being "hot
and spicy"; the appetizer was indeed rather spicy, but
when the main course came I ate a bite and thought,
"hmm... oh well, I guess they toned down the spice for
a foreigner." Happy (because it tasted good) yet a bit
disappointed, I proceeded to dig in; 2 minutes later I
suddenly realized it's actually extremely spicy -- I
had to stop for a while to let my palate catch up and
to fight off an incipient bout of hiccups.

The appetizer, Fried Fermented Bean Curd, was just out
of this world. The bean curd was beautiful silky,
almost gossamer tofu, fried in a very thin tempura-like
batter. It tasted sort of like very good sauerkraut,
and came with an extremely spicy tamari-based dipping
sauce. Also on the plate was a sweet fermented cole
slaw which I was not crazy about.

I was a bit cautious ordering my main dish. The menu
leans heavily toward entrails; probably one out of 3
dishes include some organ meat or blood, from Duck's
Tongue in Wine and Sesame Sauce, to Zesty Intestine in
Hot Pot, to Pig's Stomach with Lotus Seeds. I stayed
with the more familiar Shredded Pork with Bamboo
Shoots. It was very good (and huge -- I took more than
half of the serving home with me!), but I think next
time I go I'll venture into a bit less known territory.

Want to stay up to date with this post? Sign Up Now ›

More from Chowhound

Tired of Pumpkin? This Genoise Cake with Cranberry Curd Filling Is the Move
Food News

Tired of Pumpkin? This Genoise Cake with Cranberry Curd Filling Is the Move

by Amy Schulman | Let’s get one thing on the record: Cakes may be easy to bake, but they’re certainly tough to decorate...

Birria Red Tacos Prove Soaking Your Tortillas Is a Genius Move
Food Trends

Birria Red Tacos Prove Soaking Your Tortillas Is a Genius Move

by David Klein | Learn how to make birria tacos at home and you’ll never go back to your usual naked tortilla. A taco...

9 Short Rib Recipes to Feast on All Fall & Winter
Recipe Round-Ups

9 Short Rib Recipes to Feast on All Fall & Winter

by David Klein | Any way you cut it, short ribs satisfy with a juicy layer of fat that adds gobs of delicious beefy...

A Show-Stopping Beef, Stilton & Onion Pie to Warm You Up This Fall
Food News

A Show-Stopping Beef, Stilton & Onion Pie to Warm You Up This Fall

by Amy Schulman | Calum Franklin is a wizard with pies. The self-proclaimed pastry deviant knows how to weave together...

Get fresh food news delivered to your inbox

Sign up for our newsletter to receive the latest tips, tricks, recipes and more, sent twice a week.