What came first, bad restaurants or bad restaurant reviewers?
It seems that Baltimore has a plethora of both! This month's (April 2011) Baltimore Mag review of Alchemy is prime example of a reviewer who both knows little about food and expresses it poorly. To whit: the roasted heirloom beet salad was not 'deconstructed', as described, it was merely a beet salad. And the Ciao Bella Tahitian vanilla gelato didn't come from the restaurant in Little Italy of the same name, but from the gelato company in Brooklyn. And finally, trashing two entrees (Chicken and dumplings and Pecan-crusted lamb chops) and then dismissing that as insignificant is frankly absurd. Why mention it at all if the restaurant is 'mostly terrific'?
But the most poorly written reviews by far can be found in the City Paper. Trying to establish cred by dropping food terms isn't working; its apparent that you've never set foot in a professional kitchen. And the claim you don't review restaurants' where you're 'known' didn't stop you from reviewing Bluegrass, did it? And finally, why another review of the Red Fish/Meridian/Tangiers/Hollywood location? It sure seems that the public hasn't supported any of those recent operations; why continue beating that particular horse?
As B-more strives to raise the standards on its restaurants, how about if B-more media follows suit and raises the standards on its reviewers?
236 S. High Street, Baltimore, MD 21202
Little Italy Restaurant
6920 Bradlick Shopping Ctr, Annandale, VA 22003