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Restaurants & Bars 11

Chez Nous, Upper Fillmore, San Francisco

Limster | Jan 11, 2002 02:02 AM

Indecisive as usual, I was torn between a couple of places (many recent mentions on this board) for dinner. Chez Nous came up (Thanks Jupiter!) and a pal of mine offered not only to join but to drive.

As you know, it's a French/Mediterrenean tapas-ish place opened by the Bay Bread folks. Long sleek space defined by stylish lines and hard surfaces. Chic without industrial. There's an bar on the side glowing electric. The mood is a stroll-in kind of casual. Easy going, friendly and very very competent waitstaff that are always there just as my glass of water needed refilling.


Of course we got the lamb chops after Jupiter's glowing recommendation. (I decided to save the fries for another time - will be a romp with mussels.) Great stuff - tender, juicy meat, well oiled but not heavy on the tongue. We loved the perfume and the salty bite of the lavender sea salt. Their hard microscopic crunch on the lamb was also quite a textural pleasure. Fave of the night.

A moroccan spiced duck confit (what dark intriguing spices!). Caramelized pears and a fruity sauce add sweetness to the mix of somewhat exotic flavors on the duck. The meat is earthy and yields easily into well articulated fibers on the tongue. Excellently brittle skin.

3 kinds of greek spreads served with thin slices of bread drizzled with olive oil and toasted wit the blessings of parsley. There's a cool tsatziki with a minty and delicate flavor from the tiny bits of cucumber. It's perfectly chilled to accentuate the cucumber. Then what seemed like a cream cheese spread of some sort, pale pink-orange and deliciously briny from fish roe (my pal's favorite spread of the 3 spreads). Lastly, a good smoky eggplant, coarsely pureed and brightened with red squares of chopped bell peppers.

A nice and very flaky phyllo triangle filled with spinach, leek and feta.

For dessert, the sorbet trio of lemon, passionfruit (needs more fruity intensity) and strawberry was OK, but the tiny curls of candied lemon peel garnish really shined.

Also an very good bombe (forgot the full name, apologies) - a dome of moderately light hazelnut mousse on a crumbly chocolate crust, completely encased in a thin layer of chocolate. A drizzle of chocolate made beautiful patterns on the vanilla sauce.


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