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Restaurants & Bars 26

Celebrity Pizza/Dairy Bar (Watertown)

BarmyFotheringayPhipps | Apr 23, 200810:13 PM

Having decided it was too hot to cook dinner, Allstonian and I decided on a whim to go to Celebrity, the pizza place/dairy bar that we pass all the time on our way into Watertown but have never actually eaten at. We'd heard good things about the soft serve and the clams, but I was specifically hungry for a hamburger, and I had heard that some folks rated theirs.

I had a good feeling about the place as soon as we walked it. It just had that classic dairy bar feel, which normally you have to go out of the city to get. We ordered two super cheeseburgers (with everything except ketchup) and a large order of fries, which was indeed shockingly enormous. The fries are just okay -- typical Sysco, just a touch too greasy for my tastes -- but after I took the first bite of my hamburger, Allstonian looked at me with mild alarm, until I said "I think I'm about to start crying."

See, my ongoing frustration with living in Boston for the last six years has been that I have not had a truly fantastic burger since I moved here. Although it had gotten better with the advent of Flat Patties and the late lamented Grille Zone, the standard burger of my Texas homeland is in a style that you just don't normally see here, and I had given up hope that I would find an entirely adequate substitute.

Until now. The super burger at Celebrity is the finest hamburger I have had since early 2002. I have in other threads detailed my platonic ideal of burgerdom, and while the Celebrity superburger is not quite it -- the bun should be toasted, for one thing -- it's nearer than I had led myself to think I could find. The burger itself is juicy and properly cooked, with just enough char on the outside. There's a free hand with the mustard, proper dill pickle chips, chopped onions, lettuce and tomato. In the future, I'm going to forswear the cheese, which added nothing, and the mayo, which if I'd known it was standard I would have declined. But this is in all other ways an outstanding burger, and I'm both thrilled to have finally found it and chagrined that it took so long when I've known this place was there for years.

We had soft-serve to finish. Charity tried the infamous javaberry (coffee and raspberry sherbet swirled) with jimmies, and I went for a baseline reading with the straight vanilla cone with a butterscotch dip. The dip added little (I'm now basically convinced that only DQ has ever done really good dip cones), but man, the vanilla soft serve is quite simply the best I've ever had. It had none of that icy consistency, where you feel a thin layer crack under your tongue as you lick it. This was pure creaminess, with a strong but not overpowering vanilla flavor. Next time I'm going for my standard summertime treat, a twist cone.

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