Restaurants & Bars 1

Bymark - Review

Chris | Jun 29, 2003 01:45 AM

It was a beautiful night tonight. The heat was finally tolerable again, and the rain seemed to be holding off. I've had a bit of a difficult time lately with family stuff, so Amanda offered (make that insisted) that she take me to dinner at a restaurant of my choosing to help take my mind of some of the more negative things going on this weekend for me. I chose Bymark.

In short, it was wonderful. Everything from the valet parking attendants, to the hostess, to the sommelier, to our server was wonderful. The room has great ambience. Very subdued lighting, clean lines, almost Asian in feel. Comfortable banquettes and chairs, and big, beautiful oversized plates to be used as a canvas for some pretty amazing food.

Service was efficient without being intrusive. My only complaint was that they were a little stingy on the bread. I like bread with my meals. They don't offer a basket of bread for the table, but a bread "sommelier" walks around and deposits a few pieces on your side plate as it empties. However, mine emptied after about ten minutes and I never saw another piece. Eventually I requested more bread to help mop up the sauce left from my venison dish. Great bread, by the way.

** Seared Tuna Sashimi with Endive, Avocado, Watercress, Sweet Onion & Yuzu Soy Dressing.

Really nice. A little skimpy on the portion size, and slightly heavy-handed with the Yuzu, but still relatively balanced. The tuna was PERFECT. Absolutely stunning. Seared along the outside with a bright ruby red interior. The avocado salad it was served atop of was a nice buttery counterpoint to the otherwise bright flavours of the dish.

** Oven Cured Tomatoes With Buffalo Mozzarella, Bay Leaf, Basil & Orange Marinated Olives.

This was Amanda's choice for a first course. It was good, but it was salad. :) The tomatoes were absolutely BURSTING with flavour. Perhaps the best tomatoes I've ever had, actually. The mozzarella was average, in my opinion. The orange-marinated olives worked, but the pits make them a challenge to eat "elegantly".

** Roasted Venison Loin ( Medium Rare - Rare ) With Roasted Baby Beets, Cipollini Onions, Truffled Risotto and a natural jus.

This was astoundingly good. Cooked perfectly medium-rare as requested, it almost melted in my mouth. The accompanying risotto was BY FAR the best risotto I've ever had. It was creamy, rich, yet still had texture all at the same time. I could've eaten a bucket full of that stuff. The vegetables were nicely done as well; nicely caramelized and deep with flavour. A blueberry compote was also served alongside the dish - a really nice foil to the rich gamey flavour of the venison. Great course.

** Roasted Pickerel with Sake Maple Marinade, Peruvian Potatoes, Organic Carrots & Scallion Fritters.

Beautiful. The sake maple marinade works VERY well with this fish. I only had a small taste, so I can't comment in any great detail. It was gorgeous on the plate, though. The Peruvian potatoes (blue) were a gorgeous contrast against the red beets, white fish, and green fritters. Amanda was very pleased.

We then opted for the cheese course to share (5 cheeses). I have no idea what they were, but I loved every single one of them. Specifically, I really enjoyed the blue they served, as well as a triple-crème cheese that was absolutely sinful. Honeyed walnuts, grapes, apple slices and baguette came along with the cheeses.

** Warm Chocolate Torte with Roasted Banana Ice Cream & Crisp Banana Tuile.

I have a very strong affinity for banana :). This ice cream was SOOOOOO delicious that I have no words to describe it. It was rich, creamy, buttery, and had the clearest banana flavour I've ever tasted. It tasted more like a banana than a banana. The torte was light as air; almost soufflé like. Semi-sweet, and incredibly rich. It worked well against the somewhat "fun" ice cream. I really loved this dessert.

** Crisp Pear Fritters With Milk Chocolate Sauce & Poire William Spiked Ice Cream.

This was Amanda's dessert choice. It was good, but I wouldn't say it rose to the level of my dessert. She was pleased, but not "wowed". The pear fritters were a little TOO crispy to be easily manipulated. The ice cream was good, but the Poire William had a hard time shining through the rich cream.

We drank a Vineland Riesling (2000) throughout the meal. I love this wine. This is definitely my favourite Canadian Riesling. Perfect, in my humble opinion. I'm going to buy a case, actually. It was showing wonderfully this evening.

The portions were a little small, especially for the prices they're charging. The flavours were worth the money, but I certainly could've used bigger portions -- especially with their apps.

The entire meal with 2 apps, 2 entrees, a cheese course, 2 desserts and a bottle of Vineland Riesling was $270 before tip.

Would I go back? Absolutely, but I'm looking to try some more of Toronto's top tables first.


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