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Restaurants & Bars

Borgatti's Ravioli and Egg Noodles

rose water | Oct 20, 200602:10 AM     13

Just about every thread on Arthur Ave mentions this place, but it deserves its own chow praises. Borgatti's is a delightful old school pasta place off Arthur Avenue.

Enormous mixers in the back room mix up enormous wads of dough that are rolled out on enormous pasta machines. Plain egg pasta is cut to your desired width, then fluffed out on wax paper with a generous sprinkle of corn meal on top. The pasta cutting machine is perhaps a touch less jangly than the one at Rafetto's (on Houston Street, also a great place) but evokes images of pasta making as it's been done for as long as there have been machines to do it.

And the staff there is lovely. The elderly woman who seems to call the shots insisted that delivery men lugging huge bags of flour into the shop get sodas on their way out. And she packaged up my friend's small spinach and meat ravioli with such painstaking care--gently tearing off just the right number from a larger sheet, slipping it onto wax paper, tucking that into a brown paper bag, folding it over, taping it closed, and handing over the precious goods.

So yes, I've been charmed by the people and the place for a while. And I've dragged all my friends there on all my Arthur Avenue expeditions. But I finally tried their ricotta ravioli for the first time tonight, and it was totally heavenly. The pasta was light and fresh. And the filling was dense, salty, chewy and smooth simultaneously. It was far and away the best frozen ravioli I've ever had.

632 E. 187th Street
Bronx, NY 10458 (718) 367-3799
http://borgattis.com/

(Full disclosure: I'm hoping that if I talk about greatness in the Bronx enough, perhaps folks will join in...)

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