Restaurants & Bars

Bones in Denver

vanillagrrl | Oct 25, 201110:02 AM

We left Boulder around 5:15 and were being seated by about 6:15 at Bones, where we didn't have a reservation but got a table with no problems. I ordered the lychee sidecar, a tart and pleasant tequila-based drink that I disappeared quickly. We had a "chef's special surprise" from the happy hour menu (we had to ask for the menu -- the waitress forgot to offer it, and happy hour ends at 6:30): broiled salmon on arugula with an asian pear-kimchi slaw. The salmon was delicious but there was no spice in the "kimchi" so we added some of the red sriracha sauce and it was perfect. Also ordered the steamed buns with suckling pig and hoisin. The hoisin was amazing, and its sweet, dark richness made for umami wondrousness with the roasted pork.

Noodles were calling. My DH ordered the pork and plum udon and I ordered the lobster ramen, fully intending to share. We swapped bowls several times. I exclaimed when I tasted the miso-lobster broth, "This isn't broth, this is gravy!" And it was indeed like the most rich, subtle, sweet, delicious gravy ever, and went great with the nicely chewy ramen noodles and chunks of sweet lobster. I had ordered it with the poached egg, which would add to a thinner broth but was superfluous here. I was underwhelmed by the edamame in the dish, too; I would think chopped bitter greens might be a better addition to contrast with that super-rich broth and be easier to pick up with 'sticks. I loved my DH's udon noodles and the broth was delicious, but I felt like I could figure that one out and make it myself so it was less compelling to me. The lobster ramen was the kind of thing that would take me years to reproduce. So worth it.

I noticed that Frank Bonanno has just opened a BBQ joint in LoDo to good reviews so far, so I'm sure he'll be getting lots of attention for that. But don't forget this little gem of a restaurant. Fabbo.

701 Grant Street, Denver, CO 80203

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