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Bondir - Another Fantastic Meal (long)

Gabatta | Jul 1, 2012 11:33 AM

We had another fantastic meal at Bondir recently. This place continues to turn out excellent food across the board. They just use quality ingredients and do just enough to make each one shine. We met friend who we were dining with at Lord Hobo for some cocktails before dinner. LH is very convenient for this purpose being right around the corner from Bondir.

We were seated promptly and the dining room was comfortable despite the temperature being scorching out. Despite their fully booked status and tiny space, the atmosphere and pace at Bondir always seems just perfect. We were greeted by our server, Kathleen, upon arriving at our table who remembered us despite it having been since the winter when we were last in.

Breads are the one aspect of the food at Bondir that doesn’t blow me away. All the home made breads sound excellent, but none are particularly memorable. The Sea bread with seaweed and dried shrimp always sounds enticing but disappoints. Oh well, with food this good I don’t need to fill up on bread anyway (as my mother always warned I was doing when we were out to eat).

This is a great place to go with a party of 4, which will allow you order the entire menu in combinations of half and full portions. Even if there something you don’t traditionally like, give it a try and you may be pleasantly surprised. Highlights from our meal included (descriptions borrowed directly from their online menu of 6/23:

• Summer Posole (Ramps, Fava Beans, Fresh Garbanzo Beans, Baby Artichokes,
• Scallions, English Peas, Corn Flour Chitarra, Hominy Broth)
• Vegetable Mignardises (Roasted and Glacé with Teff Polenta and Mustard Oil): We got a half order of this and should have gotten full. Who doesn’t love roasted root veg?
• Red Wheat Tagliatelle (Sauté of Chanterelle, Mousseron, and Shiitake Mushrooms, Pu-Erh Celery Baton, Pecorino Extravecchio): Mushroom heaven with melt in your mouth home made pasta. No heavy sauce was needed to bring out the beauty of the shrooms.
• Soft-Poached Pullet Egg (Washington Morel Mushrooms, Anadama Toast, Collard Greens, Smoked Scamorza): One of my favorite dishes of the evening, but I am a sucker for any poached egg dish. The yolk in these local eggs was a rich orangish color.
• Radish Leaf Carnaroli Risotto (Seared Scituate Scallop, Baby Fennel and Turnip, Bread and Butter Carrot Vinaigrette, Herb Salad): Delicious local scallop simply prepared and seared to perfection. Scallops are one thing I don’t cook well at home. I have time getting a great sear without overcooking the middle.
• Columbia River Wild King Salmon (Sweet Peas, This Morning’s Pick of Radishes, Honshimeji Mushrooms, Fresh Caraway Seed and Thyme Vinaigrette): Salmon skin seared in duck fat? Yes please.
• Angus Beef Bavette (Adirondack Potato and Caramelized Onion, Burdock Harissa, Pressure Cooked Wheat Berries, Roasting Jus): Perfect medium rare cook on beef you could taste. Again, the preparations may sound complex, but the flavors come together simply and never overwhelm the ingredients.

Desserts are one area Bondir has really improved. After our first few visits, we stopped ordering dessert for a while. A few were excellent tonight:
• Native Strawberry Semifreddo (Angel Food Cake, Red Wine Frozen Mousse, Strawberry Jellies and Leather, Juniper Froth)
• Chocolate Sherbet, Strawberry Cabernet Ice Cream: Best chocolate ice cream or the like I have had in awhile. The strawberry reminded me of the strawberry ice cream I remember as a chils.

We will be back soon. With the rate the menu slowly turns over, I think a visit every 2 months or so is the right cadence for Bondir, leaving more than enough time to secure a reservation.

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