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Beacon and Lucky Devils-quick notes


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Restaurants & Bars 5

Beacon and Lucky Devils-quick notes

Slow Foodie | Aug 16, 2006 11:24 PM

Lunch at Beacon yesterday. First meal there and was looking way forward. Inside ultra noisy. Outside, where we sat, feels industrial and was full of flies which the busboy (in wicked delight) was igniting with a butane torch. Two choices of iced tea-tropical which I always hate and creepily iridescent green tea, brighter than Green River soda, which I tried for the first time and now can say I hate too. I will add here that I was having such a jolly time with my dining companion that I wasn't as hyper-aware of the food as I usually am. I ordered a bento box, which was preceded by a pretty tasteless miso soup. The bento box itself seemed almost shopworn and tired. There was a rice mixture, two fish compartments, a chicken dish and some obligatory green items, all really lackluster. You'd think a fusion restaurant could have enormous fun with the concept of "bento box" but the only fun to be had at Beacon yesterday apparently was fly immolation. Dessert was a blueberry peach crisp thing. On the dry side and not the most handsome dessert I’ve ever been served.

Last evening I found myself with four children, ages 5-13 at Hollywood Highland. Don’t ask. Had heard about Lucky Devils and am a sucker for a good hotdog and the accoutrements. The places is cool looking-very appealing to the chillins. The backbones of the menu are burgers and hot dogs, with a couple of sandwiches and salads thrown in. The kids all got shakes-which were really delicious and gave me horrible nightmares all night about those “child obesity” billboards. I tried the shakes-hot fudge and fresh strawberry and, as a far too frequent patron of Twohey’s and Fosselman’s, I can report they were of an ultra high caliber. The service was that affable, spacey, clueless Southern California sort. I ordered sautéed broccoli (sort of burned, dry and flavorless) and macaroni and cheese (maybe a Weight Watcher’s recipe...really lacking in cheesey creaminess) for all to share, but they were brought to table long before the burgers and without serving utensils and appetizer plates and of course grew quite cold. Two of the kids ordered Kobi burgers which come with nice grilled onions and a lovely choice of cheeses on outstanding brioche like buns. They’re served with a huge mound of the most nearly perfect restaurant fries I’ve ever had. Burgers were served exactly medium rare, as ordered and I consider them completely successful. Eleven bucks I think. I ordered for myself a chili cheese dog. The presentation was great but when I bit in, the hot dog was ice cold. Apologies all over and a new one was proffered. It still hadn’t materialized and the kids were finishing up eating, so I told the gal to cancel the hotdog as I’d pilfered enough of the kids’ fries and burgers to perfectly sate myself. Fifteen minutes later, the steaming dog showed up on the table and I declined the server’s offer to wrap it up. They did take it off the bill and apologized about a zillion more times. One of my little ones brazenly went to the counter to request more whipped cream on his shake and they actually made him a whole new milkshake (hence the billboard panic). I will definitely return, with kids in tow and no expectations of polished service and plans to run a 10K.

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