Bangkok's Chinatown (Samphaeng) is a gold mine for good street eats, especially along Thanon Yaowaraj. Our dinner last night included:
- Pad Thai (ผัดไทยกุ้งสด): For the best Pad Thai in Chinatown - not the type catering to Western tourists, but the genuine Thai version - come to this stall on Soi Itsaranuphap, the second stall on your right when you turn into this small alley of food stalls from the ever-busy Thanon Yaowaraj, Chinatown's main thoroughfare. The woman who cooks up a storm took over from her mother, who started the business over 30 years back. The chewy noodles, perfectly flavoured and blanketed in a thin omelette, has the traditional taste and texture from the 1960s, not the dressed up versions we get in malls and chain eateries these days.
- Guay Jab (ก๋วยจั๊บน้ำใส) : Very peppery soup, with thick rolls of rice noodles and slivers of pig's kidney, liver, spleen, stomach and intestine. Very good rendition here. Stall along intersection of Thanon Yaowarat and Soi Itsaranuphap.
- Hoy Tod (หอยทอด ): oyster omelette - this one from a stall just outside Charoen Krung New Road in Yaowaraj. Plump oysters in crisped tapioca flour-egg mixture. The chilli sauce was a bit too mild though, unlike the fiery ones from Penang or Malacca. But the taste of Thai-style omelettes were delicious, unlike the bland-ish, too-greasy ones we get back in Singapore.
One thing I found a bit disconcerting this time round was that most street food vendors along Thanon Yaowarat these days seems to be Myanmarese (speaking Thai with their typical Burmese lilt), and those stalls with Myanmarese cooks do not have the Thai taste/flavours I was looking for.