Restaurants & Bars 18

Bangkok - Chinatown Street Eats along Thanon Yaowarat

klyeoh | Feb 8, 201212:04 AM

Did a food trawl of Bangkok Chinatown’s amazing street-side stalls last Sunday. I was armed with a very useful publication – Bangkok’s Top 50 Street Food Stalls by Chawadee Nualkhair, a must-buy IMO if you’re exploring street eats in Bangkok. I was accompanied by a couple of Bangkok foodie-friends who’re born/raised in Yaowarat and now in their 60s– they were familiar with all the entries listed in the guide’s chapter on Chinatown & so could attest to the accuracy of the guide.

Note: We did not hit the seafood stalls which were popular with Western/Japanese/Mainland Chinese foreigners.

The best stalls I tried were:

1) Kapoh Pla Rert Rot (fish maw soup) stall – amazingly tasty Teochew-Chinese-influenced fish maw soup (กระเพาะปลา), served hot in a claypot and delicious to the last drop. A small note on the location of this stall located along the busy Thanon Yaowarat – if you’re standing on Thanon Plaeng Nam at the intersection with Thanon Yaowarat, turn left, and walk about 500 metres – the stall’s parked in front of the Seiko Watch Shop.

2) Guay Teow Lod - noodles with dried shrimps, minced pork, mushrooms, beansprouts, cuttlefish, chopped green scallions and crisp, golden fried garlic. The flat-rice noodles were embedded with dried shrimps, giving it a nice salty tang. I wished I could get this back in Singapore!!

3) Kuaychap Oun Pochana – similar to Singapore or Malaysia “koay chiap” (粿汁) , but the Thai version (ก๋วยจั๊บ) was kick-ass peppery!! Very good wide noodles, and the generous helpings of roast pork or “moo krob” (หมูกรอบ)remained crisp whilst floating in the sharp, pork broth. My friends told me that the stall had been operating there since when they were little girls – a long time indeed as both are now in their 60s. Anyway, the stall is insanely popular, and I can see why_ I'm still dreaming of their Kuaychap now!

4) Pork satay skewers, from a stall near the Kuaychap Oun Pochana - beautifully-textured, subtly-flavored and perfectly-grilled, served with a delicious peanut sauce. One of the best satays I'd ever tasted in South-East Asia - I actualy enjoyed this more than any satays I had in Indonesia during my extensive stay there last year.

Thanon Yaowarat comes alive each evening after dusk, and is one of the most exciting destinations for street food I'd ever encountered - definitely breathing down the neck of Penang for having the world's best street food, and almost certainly surpassing Ho Chi Minh City in terms of variety, if not in taste.
Warning: Many of the stalls (e.g. Kapoh Pla Rert Rot and Guay Teow Lod stalls) are closed on Mondays. Sunday evenings are busiest, and it can be a challenge to get a table/seats.

Kapoh Pla Rert Rot
Yaowarat, Bangkok 10100, TH

Guay Teow Lod
Yaowarat, Bangkok 10100, TH

Kuaychap Oun Pochana
Yaowarat, Bangkok 10100, TH

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