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Astoria Broadway Mexican notes


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Restaurants & Bars 5

Astoria Broadway Mexican notes

hatless | May 23, 2007 05:24 AM

- Tacos Mexico (38th and Broadway) isn't uniformly good, but when they're firing on all cylinders, they can do some mighty good things. The (steamed) cabeza and lengua are consistently decent. The birria is tender and flavorful, but not overcooked to where it's falling apart. The al pastor was best of all: a great mix of thicknesses, of tender and charred, crispy bits, and seasoned like the shawarma it's derived from. Many of the neighborhood gyros makers (BZ Grill excepted) could learn a thing or two from them. On past visits, I've had bland barbacoa and dried-out carne enchilada and cecina, so you've got to be willing to take your chances. Though the sides are fine, I think their dish-to-dish inconsistency makes tacos and other antojitos a good strategy: order a few different meats and some are bound to be good that day.

- Cruz Mexican Products, the grocery on 41st just off Steinway, has a little dining room tucked in back and a little party room behind that. I had a respectable but unremarkable torta de lengua, but I'll need to try more to get a good read on the place.

- The Mexican deli/grocery next to the newsstand on Broadway at 46th has just-okay tortas with precooked meat pulled from a steam table, nothing to get excited about. However, the tamales piled in a crock pot behind the counter are wonderful. Get the green ones and the mole ones in the morning while they're fresh from some neighborhood kitchen. At $1.25 each they're my current pick for breakfast-on-the-run near the 46th St. G/R/V stop.

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