Restaurants & Bars

Arunee Thai

Allan Evans | Sep 14, 2000 02:23 PM

After an absence of 10 years and many meals at Sripraphai and with Thai friends, we again tried Arunee, which seemed excellent long ago. It lies above the blandness of the Manhattan Thai places and below the glories of Jackson Heights eateries of long ago (Poo Thai in particular) and Woodside (Srip.). One dish promised Herbed squid with peanut sauce: it arrived as grilled squid with a peanut dipping sauce on the side, no sign of herbs. Pork larb was good, but missed the fish sauce. Noodles with seafood and chinese broccoli had the right balances among the ingredients but suspicious mussels, large imitation crab sticks and the inexcusable absence of garlic dampened the dish. Their iced tea, from a can and spiked with coconut milk, was refreshing. The menu is huge and by mistake we received for a few moments a dish of mussels steamed in a lemongrass broth which made us regret our choices. Sripraphai, with all its minuses, still rules.

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